Hourglass Amigurumi

The Best Things About This Pattern

There's something quietly satisfying about shaping an hourglass in yarn, watching the waist taper and the bulbs swell with every round of single crochet. This intermediate pattern calls for a 4 mm hook and worsted weight yarn, worked in continuous spirals with invisible decreases to keep the curves clean. You'll build the upper and lower bulbs separately, then join them through a cinched waist using surface crochet to define the pinch, before closing the base with a firm magic ring.

The finished piece stands approximately 10 inches (25 cm) tall and 7 inches (18 cm) wide at its widest point, a comfortable palm-sized shape that holds its structure thanks to a snug gauge and a light blocking. Expect to count carefully through the shaping rounds, since the hourglass silhouette depends on evenly spaced increases and decreases around the equator. The texture is dense and slightly springy, with the faint ridges of the spiral rounds wrapping the form like soft latitude lines.

Before you begin, take a few minutes to read through the stitch counts and mark your place in each section. Intermediate techniques like invisible decrease and surface crochet are used here, but nothing beyond that, so you can settle in and enjoy the rhythm of the rounds.

Gather These Supplies First

Material	Details
Yarn	worsted yarn in white, black, light blue, light gray, off-white
Hook	4 mm crochet hook
Stuffing	Polyfill or fiberfill
Eyes	Safety eyes or embroidery thread
Extras	Yarn needle, stitch markers, scissors

Gauge: Approximately 12 sc x 14 rounds = 2 inches with 4 mm hook. Not critical but aim for tight, even stitches, if stuffing shows through, go down one hook size.

Abbreviations You'll Need to Know

Note: This pattern uses US crochet terms. All rounds are worked in crochet unless stated otherwise. Use a stitch marker in the first stitch of each round.

Abbreviation	Meaning
sc	Single crochet
inc	Increase (2 sc in same stitch)
dec	Decrease (sc 2 together)
sl st	Slip stitch
ch	Chain

Crochet Along: Full Instructions

upper bulb, white/light gray yarn

Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring (6)

Rnd 2: inc around (12)

Rnd 3: (1 sc, inc) x 6 (18)

Rnd 4: (2 sc, inc) x 6 (24)

Rnd 5: sc around (24)

Rnd 6: (2 sc, dec) x 6 (18)

Rnd 7: (1 sc, dec) x 6 (12)

Rnd 8: dec around (6)

Rnd 9: fasten off, close hole (6)

Switch to light blue yarn for the sand upper portion.

sand upper portion, light blue yarn

Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring (6)

Rnd 2: inc around (12)

Rnd 3: sc around (12)

Rnd 4: dec around (6)

Rnd 5: fasten off, close hole (6)

sand stream, light blue yarn

Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring (6)

Rnd 2: (5 sc, inc) x 1 (7)

Rnd 3: sc around (7)

Rnd 4: sc around (7)

Rnd 5: sc around (7)

Rnd 6: sc around (7)

Rnd 7: (5 sc, dec) x 1 (6)

Rnd 8: fasten off, close hole (6)

Switch to black yarn for the frame top.

frame top, black yarn

Row 1: Ch 13, sc in 2nd ch from hook and across (12)

Row 2: Ch 1, turn, sc across (12)

Row 3: Ch 1, turn, sc across (12)

frame bottom, black yarn

Row 1: Ch 13, sc in 2nd ch from hook and across (12)

Row 2: Ch 1, turn, sc across (12)

Row 3: Ch 1, turn, sc across (12)

frame vertical supports (make 2), black yarn

Row 1: Ch 10, sc in 2nd ch from hook and across (9)

Row 2: Ch 1, turn, sc across (9)

Row 3: Ch 1, turn, sc across (9)

Row 4: Ch 1, turn, sc across (9)

Row 5: Ch 1, turn, sc across (9)

Row 6: Ch 1, turn, sc across (9)

Row 7: Ch 1, turn, sc across (9)

Row 8: Ch 1, turn, sc across (9)

Row 9: Ch 1, turn, sc across (9)

Row 10: Ch 1, turn, sc across (9)

Row 11: Ch 1, turn, sc across (9)

Row 12: Ch 1, turn, sc across (9)

Switch to white yarn for the end caps.

end caps (make 2), white yarn

Rnd 1: Ch 23, join with sl st to form ring, sc in each ch around (22)

Rnd 2: sc around (22)

Rnd 3: sc around (22)

Rnd 4: sc around (22)

Rnd 5: sc around (22)

Rnd 6: sc around (22)

Rnd 7: sc around (22)

Fasten off. Do not stuff.

Switch to black yarn for the top rim.

top rim, black yarn

Rnd 1: Ch 15, join with sl st to form ring, sc in each ch around (14)

Rnd 2: sc around (14)

Fasten off. Do not stuff.

vertical support strap left, black yarn

Rnd 1: Ch 12, join with sl st to form ring, sc in each ch around (11)

Rnd 2: sc around (11)

Fasten off. Do not stuff.

vertical support strap right, black yarn

Rnd 1: Ch 12, join with sl st to form ring, sc in each ch around (11)

Rnd 2: sc around (11)

Fasten off. Do not stuff.

Switch to off-white yarn for the waist.

waist, off-white yarn

Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring (6)

Rnd 2: sc around (6)

Rnd 3: sc around (6)

Rnd 4: fasten off, close hole (6)

Switch to light blue yarn for the sand upper.

sand upper, light blue yarn

Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring (6)

Rnd 2: inc around (12)

Rnd 3: sc around (12)

Rnd 4: dec around (6)

Rnd 5: fasten off, close hole (6)

sand lower, light blue yarn

Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring (6)

Rnd 2: inc around (12)

Rnd 3: sc around (12)

Rnd 4: dec around (6)

Rnd 5: fasten off, close hole (6)

Switch to black yarn for the frame.

frame, black yarn

Row 1: Ch 10, sc in 2nd ch from hook and across (9)

Row 2: Ch 1, turn, sc across (9)

Row 3: Ch 1, turn, sc across (9)

Row 4: Ch 1, turn, sc across (9)

Row 5: Ch 1, turn, sc across (9)

Row 6: Ch 1, turn, sc across (9)

Row 7: Ch 1, turn, sc across (9)

Row 8: Ch 1, turn, sc across (9)

Row 9: Ch 1, turn, sc across (9)

Row 10: Ch 1, turn, sc across (9)

Row 11: Ch 1, turn, sc across (9)

Row 12: Ch 1, turn, sc across (9)

Fasten off, leaving long tail for sewing

Putting the Pieces Together

1. Stuff waist firmly with polyfill for stability. Shape as you go, pressing and molding to match the reference photo. Add extra stuffing to the base for a sturdy foundation.

2. Sew upper bulb in place following the reference photo. Pin first to check positioning, then whipstitch with matching yarn, weaving in the ends securely.

3. Sew sand upper portion in place following the reference photo. Pin first to check positioning, then whipstitch with matching yarn, weaving in the ends securely.

4. Sew sand stream in place following the reference photo. Pin first to check positioning, then whipstitch with matching yarn, weaving in the ends securely.

5. Sew frame top in place following the reference photo. Pin first to check positioning, then whipstitch with matching yarn, weaving in the ends securely.

6. Sew frame bottom in place following the reference photo. Pin first to check positioning, then whipstitch with matching yarn, weaving in the ends securely.

7. Sew frame vertical supports in place following the reference photo. Pin first to check positioning, then whipstitch with matching yarn, weaving in the ends securely.

8. Sew end caps in place following the reference photo. Pin first to check positioning, then whipstitch with matching yarn, weaving in the ends securely.

9. Sew top rim in place following the reference photo. Pin first to check positioning, then whipstitch with matching yarn, weaving in the ends securely.

10. Sew vertical support strap left in place following the reference photo. Pin first to check positioning, then whipstitch with matching yarn, weaving in the ends securely.

11. Sew vertical support strap right in place following the reference photo. Pin first to check positioning, then whipstitch with matching yarn, weaving in the ends securely.

12. Sew sand upper in place following the reference photo. Pin first to check positioning, then whipstitch with matching yarn, weaving in the ends securely.

13. Sew sand lower in place following the reference photo. Pin first to check positioning, then whipstitch with matching yarn, weaving in the ends securely.

14. Sew frame in place following the reference photo. Pin first to check positioning, then whipstitch with matching yarn, weaving in the ends securely.

15. Check all seams are secure. Gently tug each attached piece to test. Trim any loose yarn ends with sharp scissors. Weave in all remaining tails with a needle, passing through at least 3 stitches in each direction to prevent unraveling. Give the finished piece a gentle squeeze to distribute stuffing evenly and shape the final form.

Maker Tips and Keeping It Clean

These practical tips will help you crochet a well-shaped hourglass amigurumi with a 4 mm hook.

• Place a stitch marker in the first stitch of every round to maintain accurate stitch count and avoid drifting.
• Use invisible decreases throughout the body to keep the shaping smooth and the color transitions clean.
• Stuff the narrow waist firmly before closing the upper and lower sections, since loose stuffing will distort the silhouette.
• Check your gauge by crocheting a small swatch; tighter stitches prevent stuffing from showing through the fabric.
• Work in continuous spirals rather than joining rounds to minimize visible seams along the curves.
• Count stitches carefully after every decrease round, as off-by-one errors are common at the tapered waist.

Follow these care instructions to keep your finished piece looking its best.

• Hand wash gently in cool water with mild detergent, then rinse thoroughly.
• Air dry flat on a clean towel away from direct sunlight to prevent color fading.
• Spot clean small marks with a damp cloth rather than submerging the whole piece.
• Store in a dry, ventilated space to preserve fiber integrity over time.

Frequently Asked Questions

What skill level is required for this hour amigurumi pattern?

This pattern is rated intermediate. You should be comfortable with amigurumi basics such as the magic ring, working in continuous rounds, and reading your stitches. The pattern also uses invisible decrease for a polished finish, so some prior experience with that technique is helpful.

What hook and yarn should I use?

You will need a 4 mm crochet hook and worsted weight yarn. Cotton or cotton-blend yarns are recommended for amigurumi because they hold their shape well and show stitch definition clearly.

How long will it take to finish this project?

Most crocheters complete this hour in 2–4 hours, depending on your pace and how often you stop. Experienced amigurumi makers may finish closer to the lower end, while beginners or those adding embellishments may need the full 4 hours.

Can I make the hour larger or smaller?

Yes. To resize, simply adjust your hook size or yarn weight. A larger hook with bulky yarn will create a bigger hourglass, while a smaller hook with lighter yarn will produce a miniature version. Keep in mind that resizing will also affect your yardage and finished dimensions.

May I sell finished items made from this pattern?

Yes, you are welcome to sell finished amigurumi hours made from this pattern. Please credit the designer when listing or sharing your work, and do not redistribute or resell the pattern itself.

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