Devil Amigurumi For Spooky Shelf Styling
Finished Size: Approximately 10 inches (25 cm) tall and 7 inches (18 cm) wide
Skill Level: Intermediate
Estimated Time: 2-4 hours
Hook Size: 4 mm
Yarn: worsted yarn
Notions: Yarn needle, stitch marker, polyfill
Gauge: Approximately 12 sc x 14 rounds = 4 inches with 4 mm hook
The Best Things About This Pattern
This devil amigurumi is an amigurumi doll worked in red, black, beige, and white. You will crochet the head, horn, ear, eye, mouth, eyebrow, body, shirt, short, arm, leg, shoe, tail, muzzle, nose, hand, foot, and the tail tip. The pattern walks through each piece with clear round-by-round counts, then shows how to assemble and finish everything so the result matches the reference photos.
Use the pattern card as your material checklist before starting. Safety eyes give a polished look. It stands upright on its own. Keep your tension even, count stitches at the end of shaping rounds, and check the placement notes before sewing pieces together for a clean handmade result.
Important Notes Before Beginning
This devil amigurumi is a satisfying project for crocheters who enjoy working in the round and want a finished piece with real character. The shaping is straightforward enough to follow without constant reference, yet the small details, like horns, a tail, and facial features, give you room to play with color and expression. It works well as a Halloween decoration, a gift for someone who collects quirky handmade figures, or a playful accent on a shelf year-round. If you have a few amigurumi projects under your belt and want to stretch your skills with surface embroidery and decreases, this pattern is a good next step.
Yarn choice matters more here than on simpler projects because the finished size depends heavily on your gauge. A worsted weight acrylic or cotton blend worked tightly with a 4 mm hook will give you a sturdy fabric that holds stuffing without visible gaps, which is essential for the rounded body and head. For color, classic red is the obvious choice, but deep burgundy, charcoal, or even a gradient from black to crimson reads beautifully. Pair the main color with a small amount of white or cream for eyes and teeth, and a touch of gold or yellow for the horns if you want extra contrast. Using the same yarn weight throughout keeps the finished devil at roughly 10 inches tall and 7 inches wide, though your tension may shift that by half an inch in either direction.
The most common pitfall with this project is loose tension around the increases, which leaves small holes where stuffing shows through and weakens the shape of the head and body. Take a moment after each round to check that your stitches sit snugly against the hook, and consider switching to decreases once the piece curves inward so the surface stays smooth. Counting stitches at the end of every round also prevents the gradual drift that turns a neat sphere into a lopsided lump.
Gather These Supplies First
| Material | Details |
|---|---|
| Yarn | worsted yarn in red, black, beige, white |
| Hook | 4 mm crochet hook |
| Stuffing | Polyfill or fiberfill |
| Eyes | Safety eyes or embroidery thread |
| Extras | Yarn needle, stitch markers, scissors |
Gauge: Approximately 12 sc x 14 rounds = 4 inches with 4 mm hook. Not critical but aim for tight, even stitches, if stuffing shows through, go down one hook size.
Stitches and Abbreviations Used
Note: This pattern uses US crochet terms. All rounds are worked in continuous rounds unless stated otherwise. Use a stitch marker in the first stitch of each round.
| Abbreviation | Meaning |
|---|---|
| sc | Single crochet |
| inc | Increase (2 sc in same stitch) |
| dec | Decrease (sc 2 together) |
Let's Make It: Instructions
head, red yarn
Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring (6)
Rnd 2: inc around (12)
Rnd 3: (1 sc, inc) x 6 (18)
Rnd 4: (2 sc, inc) x 6 (24)
Rnd 5: (3 sc, inc) x 6 (30)
Rnd 6: sc around (30)
Rnd 7: sc around (30)
Rnd 8: (3 sc, dec) x 6 (24)
Rnd 9: (2 sc, dec) x 6 (18)
Rnd 10: (1 sc, dec) x 6 (12)
Rnd 11: dec around (6)
Rnd 12: fasten off, close hole (6)
horn (make 2), red yarn
Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring (6)
Rnd 2: sc around (6)
Rnd 3: sc around (6)
Rnd 4: sc around (6)
Rnd 5: sc around (6)
Rnd 6: sc around (6)
Rnd 7: sc around (6)
Rnd 8: fasten off, close hole (6)
ear (make 2), red yarn
Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring (6)
Rnd 2: (2 sc, inc) x 2 (8)
Rnd 3: sc around (8)
Rnd 4: sc around (8)
Rnd 5: sc around (8)
Rnd 6: (2 sc, dec) x 2 (6)
Switch to black yarn for the eye.
eye (make 2), black yarn
Use 6 mm safety eyes or embroidered eyes; place them on the upper half of the head, about one eye-width apart.
If using safety eyes, insert the posts before closing the head opening and secure the backs firmly on the inside.
If embroidering, work two small black satin stitches, then add a tiny white stitch highlight if desired.
mouth, black yarn
Embroider the mouth with black or dark brown thread after the eyes are placed.
Use a single curved satin stitch or back stitch, centered below the eyes and about 1.5 cm wide.
eyebrow (make 2), black yarn
Embroider this facial detail with black thread after the head is closed.
Use short straight stitches or satin stitch, keeping the line light and curved so it sits naturally above the eye.
Switch to red and black yarn for the body.
body, red and black yarn
Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring (6)
Rnd 2: inc around (12)
Rnd 3: (1 sc, inc) x 6 (18)
Rnd 4: (2 sc, inc) x 6 (24)
Rnd 5: (11 sc, inc) x 2 (26)
Rnd 6: sc around (26)
Rnd 7: sc around (26)
Rnd 8: sc around (26)
Rnd 9: sc around (26)
Rnd 10: sc around (26)
Rnd 11: sc around (26)
Rnd 12: sc around (26)
Rnd 13: sc around (26)
Rnd 14: sc around (26)
Rnd 15: (2 sc, dec) x 4 (3 sc, dec) x 2 (20)
Rnd 16: (1 sc, dec) x 4 (2 sc, dec) x 2 (14)
Rnd 17: (dec) x 4 (1 sc, dec) x 2 (8)
Rnd 18: (2 sc, dec) x 2 (6)
Rnd 19: fasten off, close hole (6)
shirt, red and black yarn
Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring (6)
Rnd 2: inc around (12)
Rnd 3: (1 sc, inc) x 6 (18)
Rnd 4: sc around (18)
Rnd 5: sc around (18)
Rnd 6: sc around (18)
Rnd 7: sc around (18)
Rnd 8: sc around (18)
Rnd 9: sc around (18)
Rnd 10: sc around (18)
Rnd 11: (1 sc, dec) x 6 (12)
Rnd 12: dec around (6)
Rnd 13: fasten off, close hole (6)
Switch to black yarn for the short.
short, black yarn
Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring (6)
Rnd 2: inc around (12)
Rnd 3: (1 sc, inc) x 6 (18)
Rnd 4: sc around (18)
Rnd 5: sc around (18)
Rnd 6: sc around (18)
Rnd 7: sc around (18)
Rnd 8: sc around (18)
Rnd 9: sc around (18)
Rnd 10: sc around (18)
Rnd 11: (1 sc, dec) x 6 (12)
Rnd 12: dec around (6)
Rnd 13: fasten off, close hole (6)
Switch to red yarn for the arm.
arm (make 2), red yarn
Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring (6)
Rnd 2: inc around (12)
Rnd 3: (1 sc, inc) x 3 (2 sc, inc) x 2 (17)
Rnd 4: sc around (17)
Rnd 5: sc around (17)
Rnd 6: sc around (17)
Rnd 7: sc around (17)
Rnd 8: sc around (17)
Rnd 9: sc around (17)
Rnd 10: sc around (17)
Rnd 11: sc around (17)
leg (make 2), red yarn
Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring (6)
Rnd 2: inc around (12)
Rnd 3: (1 sc, inc) x 6 (18)
Rnd 4: sc around (18)
Rnd 5: sc around (18)
Rnd 6: sc around (18)
Rnd 7: sc around (18)
Rnd 8: sc around (18)
Rnd 9: sc around (18)
Rnd 10: sc around (18)
Rnd 11: sc around (18)
Switch to black yarn for the shoe.
shoe (make 2), black yarn
Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring (6)
Rnd 2: (5 sc, inc) x 1 (7)
Rnd 3: (5 sc, dec) x 1 (6)
Rnd 4: fasten off, close hole (6)
Switch to red yarn for the tail.
tail, red yarn
Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring (6)
Rnd 2: sc around (6)
Rnd 3: sc around (6)
Rnd 4: sc around (6)
Rnd 5: sc around (6)
Rnd 6: sc around (6)
Rnd 7: sc around (6)
Rnd 8: sc around (6)
Rnd 9: sc around (6)
Switch to beige yarn for the muzzle.
muzzle, beige yarn
Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring (6)
Rnd 2: (1 sc, inc) x 3 (9)
Rnd 3: sc around (9)
Rnd 4: (1 sc, dec) x 3 (6)
Rnd 5: fasten off, close hole (6)
Switch to red yarn for the nose.
nose, red yarn
Embroider the nose with black thread after the eyes are placed.
Work a small triangular satin stitch centered between the eyes, about 8 mm wide.
hand (make 2), red yarn
Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring (6)
Rnd 2: inc around (12)
Rnd 3: (1 sc, inc) x 6 (18)
Rnd 4: (2 sc, inc) x 6 (24)
Rnd 5: sc around (24)
Rnd 6: (2 sc, dec) x 6 (18)
Rnd 7: (1 sc, dec) x 6 (12)
Rnd 8: dec around (6)
Rnd 9: fasten off, close hole (6)
Switch to black yarn for the foot.
foot (make 2), black yarn
Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring (6)
Rnd 2: inc around (12)
Rnd 3: dec around (6)
Rnd 4: fasten off, close hole (6)
Switch to red yarn for the tail tip.
tail tip, red yarn
Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring (6)
Rnd 2: sc around (6)
Rnd 3: sc around (6)
Rnd 4: sc around (6)
Rnd 5: sc around (6)
Rnd 6: sc around (6)
Rnd 7: sc around (6)
Rnd 8: sc around (6)
Rnd 9: sc around (6)
Rnd 10: fasten off, close hole (6)
Final Stitch Counts
- head: 30 stitches at widest point
- horn (x 2): 6 stitches at widest point
- ear (x 2): 8 stitches at widest point
- eye (x 2): See pattern
- mouth: See pattern
- eyebrow (x 2): See pattern
- body: 26 stitches at widest point
- shirt: 18 stitches at widest point
- short: 18 stitches at widest point
- arm (x 2): 17 stitches at widest point
- leg (x 2): 18 stitches at widest point
- shoe (x 2): 7 stitches at widest point
- tail: 6 stitches at widest point
- muzzle: 9 stitches at widest point
- nose: See pattern
- hand (x 2): 24 stitches at widest point
- foot (x 2): 12 stitches at widest point
- tail tip: 6 stitches at widest point
How to Assemble the Finished Parts
1. Stuff head, body, short, hand, foot firmly with polyfill for stability. Shape as you go, pressing and molding to match the reference photo. Add extra stuffing to the base for a sturdy foundation.
2. Sew horn to the top of the head. Position symmetrically, about 1 cm apart, angled slightly outward. Pin in place before sewing to check alignment from all angles. Use the long tail left for sewing and whipstitch around the base.
3. Sew ear to the sides of the head. Position just below the horns, angled outward at 45 degrees. Pin in place before sewing to check alignment from all angles. Use the long tail left for sewing and whipstitch around the base.
4. Attach eye to the head. Position on the upper half of the head, below the horns, spaced about one eye-width apart. Secure firmly with embroidery thread or fabric glue. Embroider a small line below each eye for a more expressive look.
5. Sew mouth to the head. Pin in place before sewing to check positioning. Use whipstitch for a secure attachment.
6. Embroider eyebrow above each eye, following the natural brow arch. Use short satin or back stitches in matching yarn, keeping the line light and slightly curved. Place them about one eye-width above the eyes for a balanced expression.
7. Sew muzzle to the front of the head. Center between the eyes, slightly below the eye line. Stuff lightly with polyfill before closing for a 3D effect. Pin in place before sewing to check alignment from all angles.
8. Embroider the nose with black thread centered between the eyes. Work a small triangular satin stitch about 8 mm wide.
9. Slip shirt over the body; do not stuff it. Whipstitch the top edge to the shoulders or neckline, and leave the hem free so the garment drapes naturally. Pin evenly before sewing to keep the opening centered.
10. Sew arm to the body. Align carefully and pin in place before sewing. Check from all angles, then sew firmly with whipstitch.
11. Sew leg to the body. Align carefully and pin in place before sewing. Check from all angles, then sew firmly with whipstitch.
12. Sew tail to the body. Align carefully and pin in place before sewing. Check from all angles, then sew firmly with whipstitch.
13. Sew tail tip to the body. Pin in place before sewing to check positioning. Use whipstitch for a secure attachment.
14. Sew eyebrow in place following the reference photo. Pin first to check positioning, then whipstitch with matching yarn, weaving in the ends securely.
15. Sew shoe in place following the reference photo. Pin first to check positioning, then whipstitch with matching yarn, weaving in the ends securely.
16. Sew tail tip in place following the reference photo. Pin first to check positioning, then whipstitch with matching yarn, weaving in the ends securely.
17. Check all seams are secure. Gently tug each attached piece to test. Trim any loose yarn ends with sharp scissors. Weave in all remaining tails with a needle, passing through at least 3 stitches in each direction to prevent unraveling. Give the finished piece a gentle squeeze to distribute stuffing evenly and shape the final form.
Pro Tips and Care Advice
These practical tips will help you crochet a well-finished devil amigurumi using a 4 mm hook. The techniques below are suited for an intermediate skill level and address common construction challenges for shaped figures.
- Use stitch markers to mark the first stitch of every round, because amigurumi is worked in continuous spirals and losing your place causes uneven shaping and visible jogs at color changes.
- Maintain tight, even tension throughout the body, since loose stitches allow the stuffing to show through and create a lumpy surface that is difficult to correct after the piece is closed.
- Work decreases rather than standard single crochet two together, because the invisible method keeps the decrease line smooth and prevents the characteristic triangle gaps that appear on rounded forms like the head and horns.
- Stuff the head and body firmly but avoid over packing the limbs, because dense stuffing in small appendages makes it hard to position the arms and legs and can distort the stitch pattern near the joins.
- Add facial features with the stitch detail or embroidery before closing the head, because attaching eyes and a mouth after stuffing limits your access to the interior and often results in crooked placement.
- Join the limbs with a whip stitch through both the appendage and the body stitches, because this anchors them securely and allows you to adjust the angle so the figure sits or stands properly.
- Switch colors cleanly by starting the new shade in the last yarn-over of the previous stitch, because this technique prevents the carried yarn from showing on the right side and keeps color changes crisp.
- Block only the flat pieces such as the horns or tail tip before assembly, because three-dimensional amigurumi pieces hold their shape from stuffing and do not require aggressive blocking that could flatten the stitches.
Follow these care instructions to keep your finished devil amigurumi looking its best over time.
Frequently Asked Questions
What skill level is needed to crochet this devil amigurumi pattern?
This devil amigurumi pattern is rated Intermediate, so you should be comfortable with amigurumi basics like the magic ring, single crochet in the round, and working with small parts. The pattern also uses techniques such as decreases and the stitch detail for attaching details cleanly. If you have completed a few small amigurumi projects before, you should be able to follow along without too much trouble.
What hook size and yarn weight should I use for the devil amigurumi?
You will need a 4 mm crochet hook and worsted weight yarn to match the gauge used in the pattern. Using the recommended hook and yarn helps your devil amigurumi come out roughly the same size as shown in the photos. Swapping in a different hook or yarn weight will change the finished dimensions and may affect how tightly the stuffing shows through the stitches.
How long does it take to finish the devil amigurumi?
Most crocheters finish the devil amigurumi in 2-4 hours, depending on their pace and how many breaks they take. Experienced amigurumi makers often land on the shorter end, while those newer to small-part assembly may take closer to four hours. Blocking, sewing pieces together, and embroidering facial details are included in that.
Can I sell finished devil amigurumi dolls made from this pattern?
Yes, you are welcome to sell finished devil amigurumi dolls made from this pattern, whether at craft fairs, online shops, or local markets. Please credit the designer when listing or promoting your items. Mass production or reselling the pattern itself, digital or printed, is not permitted.
How do I resize the devil amigurumi?
To make a larger or smaller
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