Benny The Bull Amigurumi For Chicago Bulls Fans

Why Crocheters Love This Design

Meet Benny the Bull, a sturdy little amigurumi with a playful stance and a personality that fills any room he sits in. Worked in worsted weight yarn on a 3.5 mm hook, this intermediate pattern guides you through shaping the head, body, and horns with clean increases and decreases, then brings the whole figure to life with the stitch detail details and a tidy decreases around the muzzle. The finished piece measures approximately 10 inches (25 cm) tall and 7 inches (18 cm) wide, giving Benny a chunky, huggable silhouette that holds its shape in your hands.

The texture of the stitches is tight and springy, with each round of single crochet stacking into a firm fabric that stands up on its own. You will work in continuous spirals, count your stitches carefully, and use a short row technique to shape the curve of the horns so they sit at just the right angle. The pattern calls for a small amount of black and white yarn for the eyes and hooves, and a touch of red for the collar, so you can practice simple color changes without getting tangled in complex color work.

Benny makes a perfect gift for the basketball fan in your life, a cheerful mascot for a nursery shelf, or a desk companion who nods along while you work through your to-do list. He is also a satisfying project for crocheters who want to practice decreases, surface embroidery, and shaping rows in a manageable size that finishes in a weekend.

Grab your hook, your favorite worsted yarn, and a handful of stuffing, and prepare to bring a little team spirit to your crochet hook. Once you finish the last stitch and tie off the final horn, you will have a 10-inch bull with a 7-inch stance, ready to charge into his new home.

A Few Notes Before We Begin

This project rewards the maker with a bold, recognizable mascot that doubles as a playful shelf companion or a gift for the basketball fan in your life. The rounded body, expressive horns, and signature red tongue come together in a piece that reads clearly from across the room, yet the construction stays approachable for anyone comfortable reading a written pattern and counting rounds. If you enjoy working projects that balance geometric shaping with a few small details, this one hits a satisfying middle ground between a straightforward amigurumi and something with real personality.

For the body and head, a worsted weight acrylic in classic Bulls red works beautifully and keeps the finished toy light weight and washable. A small amount of black or charcoal handles the horns, hooves, and facial features, while a scrap of white or cream is enough for the eyes. If you prefer a softer drape, a cotton blend in the same weight produces a slightly denser fabric that holds the horns upright without extra stiffening. Worked at a gauge that gives a tight, even stitch, the finished piece stands roughly ten inches tall and seven inches wide, making it a comfortable hand-held size without being fragile.

The most common pitfall with this build is letting the head increase too quickly, which leaves a visible point at the crown instead of a smooth dome. Mark each round, count carefully through the shaping section, and pause to compare your work against the stitch count called out in the pattern. decreases and the stitch detail both appear in the finishing steps, so keep your tension even and your hook size consistent at 3.5 mm throughout; switching tools mid-project is the fastest way to throw off the proportions and make the horns sit unevenly.

Your Supply List

Material	Details
Yarn	worsted yarn in red, white, black, cream
Hook	3.5 mm crochet hook
Stuffing	Polyfill or fiberfill
Eyes	Safety eyes or embroidery thread
Extras	Yarn needle, stitch markers, scissors

Gauge: Approximately 12 sc x 14 rounds = 4 inches with 3.5 mm hook. Not critical but aim for tight, even stitches, if stuffing shows through, go down one hook size.

Crochet Stitches in This Pattern

Note: This pattern uses US crochet terms. All rounds are worked in continuous rounds unless stated otherwise. Use a stitch marker in the first stitch of each round.

Abbreviation	Meaning
sc	Single crochet
inc	Increase (2 sc in same stitch)
dec	Decrease (sc 2 together)
sl st	Slip stitch
ch	Chain

Let's Make It: Instructions

head, red yarn

Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring (6)

Rnd 2: inc around (12)

Rnd 3: (1 sc, inc) x 6 (18)

Rnd 4: (2 sc, inc) x 6 (24)

Rnd 5: (3 sc, inc) x 6 (30)

Rnd 6: sc around (30)

Rnd 7: sc around (30)

Rnd 8: (3 sc, dec) x 6 (24)

Rnd 9: (2 sc, dec) x 6 (18)

Rnd 10: (1 sc, dec) x 6 (12)

Rnd 11: dec around (6)

Rnd 12: fasten off, close hole (6)

body, red yarn

Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring (6)

Rnd 2: inc around (12)

Rnd 3: (1 sc, inc) x 6 (18)

Rnd 4: (2 sc, inc) x 6 (24)

Rnd 5: (11 sc, inc) x 2 (26)

Rnd 6: sc around (26)

Rnd 7: sc around (26)

Rnd 8: sc around (26)

Rnd 9: sc around (26)

Rnd 10: sc around (26)

Rnd 11: (11 sc, dec) x 2 (24)

Rnd 12: (2 sc, dec) x 6 (18)

Rnd 13: (1 sc, dec) x 6 (12)

Rnd 14: dec around (6)

Rnd 15: fasten off, close hole (6)

Switch to white yarn for the horn.

horn (make 2), white yarn

Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring (6)

Rnd 2: sc around (6)

Rnd 3: sc around (6)

Rnd 4: sc around (6)

Rnd 5: sc around (6)

Rnd 6: sc around (6)

Rnd 7: sc around (6)

Rnd 8: fasten off, close hole (6)

Switch to red yarn for the ear.

ear (make 2), red yarn

Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring (6)

Rnd 2: (2 sc, inc) x 2 (8)

Rnd 3: sc around (8)

Rnd 4: sc around (8)

Rnd 5: sc around (8)

Rnd 6: (2 sc, dec) x 2 (6)

Switch to black yarn for the eye.

eye (make 2), black yarn

Use 6 mm safety eyes or embroidered eyes; place them on the upper half of the head, about one eye-width apart.

If using safety eyes, insert the posts before closing the head opening and secure the backs firmly on the inside.

If embroidering, work two small black satin stitches, then add a tiny white stitch highlight if desired.

Switch to white yarn for the muzzle.

muzzle, white yarn

Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring (6)

Rnd 2: (1 sc, inc) x 3 (9)

Rnd 3: sc around (9)

Rnd 4: (1 sc, dec) x 3 (6)

Rnd 5: fasten off, close hole (6)

Switch to black yarn for the nose.

nose, black yarn

Embroider the nose with black thread after the eyes are placed.

Work a small triangular satin stitch centered between the eyes, about 8 mm wide.

Switch to red yarn for the arm.

arm (make 2), red yarn

Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring (6)

Rnd 2: inc around (12)

Rnd 3: (1 sc, inc) x 3 (2 sc, inc) x 2 (17)

Rnd 4: sc around (17)

Rnd 5: sc around (17)

Rnd 6: sc around (17)

Rnd 7: sc around (17)

Rnd 8: sc around (17)

Rnd 9: sc around (17)

Rnd 10: sc around (17)

Rnd 11: sc around (17)

leg (make 2), red yarn

Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring (6)

Rnd 2: inc around (12)

Rnd 3: (1 sc, inc) x 6 (18)

Rnd 4: sc around (18)

Rnd 5: sc around (18)

Rnd 6: sc around (18)

Rnd 7: sc around (18)

Rnd 8: sc around (18)

Rnd 9: sc around (18)

Rnd 10: sc around (18)

Rnd 11: sc around (18)

Switch to black yarn for the foot.

foot (make 2), black yarn

Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring (6)

Rnd 2: inc around (12)

Rnd 3: dec around (6)

Rnd 4: fasten off, close hole (6)

Switch to red yarn for the shirt.

shirt, red yarn

Rnd 1: Ch 31, join with sl st to form ring, sc in each ch around (30)

Rnd 2: sc around (30)

Rnd 3: sc around (30)

Rnd 4: sc around (30)

Rnd 5: sc around (30)

Rnd 6: sc around (30)

Rnd 7: sc around (30)

Rnd 8: sc around (30)

Rnd 9: sc around (30)

Rnd 10: sc around (30)

Fasten off. Do not stuff.

Switch to white yarn for the shorts.

shorts, white yarn

Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring (6)

Rnd 2: inc around (12)

Rnd 3: (1 sc, inc) x 6 (18)

Rnd 4: (2 sc, inc) x 6 (24)

Rnd 5: sc around (24)

Rnd 6: (2 sc, dec) x 6 (18)

Rnd 7: (1 sc, dec) x 6 (12)

Rnd 8: dec around (6)

Rnd 9: fasten off, close hole (6)

Switch to black yarn for the eyebrows.

eyebrows (make 2), black yarn

Embroider this facial detail with black thread after the head is closed.

Use short straight stitches or satin stitch, keeping the line light and curved so it sits naturally above the eye.

Switch to white yarn for the inner_ear.

inner_ear (make 2), white yarn

Row 1: Ch 10, sc in 2nd ch from hook and across (9)

Row 2: Ch 1, turn, sc across (9)

Row 3: Ch 1, turn, sc across (9)

Row 4: Ch 1, turn, sc across (9)

Row 5: Ch 1, turn, sc across (9)

Row 6: Ch 1, turn, sc across (9)

belt, white yarn

Rnd 1: Ch 13, join with sl st to form ring, sc in each ch around (12)

Rnd 2: sc around (12)

Rnd 3: sc around (12)

Rnd 4: sc around (12)

Fasten off. Do not stuff.

Switch to black yarn for the belt_buckle.

belt_buckle, black yarn

Row 1: Ch 7, sc in 2nd ch from hook and across (6)

Row 2: Ch 1, turn, sc across (6)

Row 3: Ch 1, turn, sc across (6)

Row 4: Ch 1, turn, sc across (6)

Switch to white yarn for the logo_text.

logo_text, white yarn

Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring (6)

Rnd 2: (2 sc, inc) x 2 (8)

Rnd 3: sc around (8)

Rnd 4: sc around (8)

Rnd 5: sc around (8)

Rnd 6: (2 sc, dec) x 2 (6)

Rnd 7: fasten off, close hole (6)

arm_stripes (make 4), white yarn

Row 1: Ch 18, sc in 2nd ch from hook and across (17)

Row 2: Ch 1, turn, sc across (17)

Row 3: Ch 1, turn, sc across (17)

Row 4: Ch 1, turn, sc across (17)

Row 5: Ch 1, turn, sc across (17)

Row 6: Ch 1, turn, sc across (17)

Row 7: Ch 1, turn, sc across (17)

Row 8: Ch 1, turn, sc across (17)

Row 9: Ch 1, turn, sc across (17)

Row 10: Ch 1, turn, sc across (17)

Row 11: Ch 1, turn, sc across (17)

Switch to black yarn for the feet.

feet (make 2), black yarn

Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring (6)

Rnd 2: inc around (12)

Rnd 3: (1 sc, inc) x 6 (18)

Rnd 4: (2 sc, inc) x 6 (24)

Rnd 5: sc around (24)

Rnd 6: (2 sc, dec) x 6 (18)

Rnd 7: (1 sc, dec) x 6 (12)

Rnd 8: dec around (6)

Rnd 9: fasten off, close hole (6)

hoof (make 4), black yarn

Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring (6)

Rnd 2: inc around (12)

Rnd 3: sc around (12)

Rnd 4: sc around (12)

Rnd 5: dec around (6)

Rnd 6: fasten off, close hole (6)

Switch to red yarn for the tail.

tail, red yarn

Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring (6)

Rnd 2: sc around (6)

Rnd 3: sc around (6)

Rnd 4: sc around (6)

Rnd 5: sc around (6)

Rnd 6: sc around (6)

Rnd 7: sc around (6)

Rnd 8: sc around (6)

Rnd 9: sc around (6)

Switch to black yarn for the pants.

pants, black yarn

Rnd 1: Ch 31, join with sl st to form ring, sc in each ch around (30)

Rnd 2: sc around (30)

Rnd 3: sc around (30)

Rnd 4: sc around (30)

Rnd 5: sc around (30)

Rnd 6: sc around (30)

Rnd 7: sc around (30)

Rnd 8: sc around (30)

Rnd 9: sc around (30)

Rnd 10: sc around (30)

Fasten off. Do not stuff.

Switch to white yarn for the stripe.

stripe (make 2), white yarn

Row 1: Ch 7, sc in 2nd ch from hook and across (6)

Row 2: Ch 1, turn, sc across (6)

Row 3: Ch 1, turn, sc across (6)

Row 4: Ch 1, turn, sc across (6)

Fasten off, leaving long tail for sewing

Switch to black yarn for the shoes.

shoes (make 2), black yarn

Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring (6)

Rnd 2: (5 sc, inc) x 1 (7)

Rnd 3: (5 sc, dec) x 1 (6)

Rnd 4: fasten off, close hole (6)

Final Assembly, Step by Step

1. Stuff head, body, foot, feet firmly with polyfill. Shape the stuffing as you go, pressing and molding to create a natural form. Add extra stuffing to the center for a rounded shape, less near the edges for a tapered look.

2. Sew horn to the top of the head. Position symmetrically, about 1 cm apart, angled slightly outward. Pin in place before sewing to check alignment from all angles. Use the long tail left for sewing and whipstitch around the base.

3. Sew ear to the sides of the head. Position just below the horns, angled outward at 45 degrees. Pin in place before sewing to check alignment from all angles. Use the long tail left for sewing and whipstitch around the base.

4. Attach eye to the head. Position on the upper half of the head, below the horns, spaced about one eye-width apart. Secure firmly with embroidery thread or fabric glue. Embroider a small line below each eye for a more expressive look.

5. Sew muzzle to the front of the head. Center between the eyes, slightly below the eye line. Stuff lightly with polyfill before closing for a 3D effect. Pin in place before sewing to check alignment from all angles.

6. Embroider the nose with black thread centered between the eyes. Work a small triangular satin stitch about 8 mm wide.

7. Embroider eyebrows above each eye, following the natural brow arch. Use short satin or back stitches in matching yarn, keeping the line light and slightly curved. Place them about one eye-width above the eyes for a balanced expression.

8. Sew arm to the body. Position symmetrically on each side. For arms: attach at the upper third of the body, angled slightly outward. For legs: attach at the base, spaced evenly apart so the figure stands balanced. Pin in place, check from front and side views, then sew firmly with whipstitch.

9. Sew leg to the body. Position symmetrically on each side. For arms: attach at the upper third of the body, angled slightly outward. For legs: attach at the base, spaced evenly apart so the figure stands balanced. Pin in place, check from front and side views, then sew firmly with whipstitch.

10. Slip shirt over the body; do not stuff it. Whipstitch the top edge to the shoulders or neckline, and leave the hem free so the garment drapes naturally. Pin evenly before sewing to keep the opening centered.

11. Slip shorts over the body; do not stuff it. Whipstitch the top edge to the shoulders or neckline, and leave the hem free so the garment drapes naturally. Pin evenly before sewing to keep the opening centered.

12. Sew tail to the body. Position symmetrically on each side. For arms: attach at the upper third of the body, angled slightly outward. For legs: attach at the base, spaced evenly apart so the figure stands balanced. Pin in place, check from front and side views, then sew firmly with whipstitch.

13. Slip pants over the body; do not stuff it. Whipstitch the top edge to the shoulders or neckline, and leave the hem free so the garment drapes naturally. Pin evenly before sewing to keep the opening centered.

14. Add missing mouth: embroider a small curved mouth below the eyes with black or dark brown thread.

15. Sew eyebrows in place following the reference photo. Pin first to check positioning, then whipstitch with matching yarn, weaving in the ends securely.

16. Sew inner_ear in place following the reference photo. Pin first to check positioning, then whipstitch with matching yarn, weaving in the ends securely.

17. Sew belt in place following the reference photo. Pin first to check positioning, then whipstitch with matching yarn, weaving in the ends securely.

18. Sew belt_buckle in place following the reference photo. Pin first to check positioning, then whipstitch with matching yarn, weaving in the ends securely.

19. Sew logo_text in place following the reference photo. Pin first to check positioning, then whipstitch with matching yarn, weaving in the ends securely.

20. Sew arm_stripes in place following the reference photo. Pin first to check positioning, then whipstitch with matching yarn, weaving in the ends securely.

21. Sew hoof in place following the reference photo. Pin first to check positioning, then whipstitch with matching yarn, weaving in the ends securely.

22. Sew shoes in place following the reference photo. Pin first to check positioning, then whipstitch with matching yarn, weaving in the ends securely.

23. Check all seams are secure. Gently tug each attached piece to test. Trim any loose yarn ends with sharp scissors. Weave in all remaining tails with a needle, passing through at least 3 stitches in each direction to prevent unraveling. Give the finished piece a gentle squeeze to distribute stuffing evenly and shape the final form.

Maker Tips and Keeping It Clean

These tips and care instructions will help you complete your Benny the Bull amigurumi with a well-balanced shape, clean color transitions, and a durable finish suitable for an intermediate-level maker.

• Use stitch markers to mark the first stitch of every round, because the dense single crochet fabric can make the start nearly invisible and skipping a stitch will distort the head and horn shaping.
• Maintain even tension throughout the body, since loose stitches create visible gaps where the white polyfill stuffing will push through, while overly tight stitches make the fabric stiff and prevent the legs from sitting evenly on a flat surface.
• Work decreases rather than standard sc 2 tog, because the smoother decrease keeps the surface of the snout and ears free of small bumps that would interrupt the clean color change between red and white.
• Stuff the head and horns firmly but keep the legs and tail lightly filled, because over-stuffing the limbs will stretch the stitches and cause the joints to look bulky rather than neatly tapered.
• Check your gauge after the first three rounds of the head, because a 3.5 mm hook combined with the recommended yarn weight should produce a fabric where stitches are tight enough to hide stuffing yet flexible enough to allow shaping.
• Carry the contrasting color across the back of the work during color changes for the face details, because this method keeps the wrong side tidy and avoids the bulk that crochet would introduce in such a small piece.
• Pin all pieces together with sewing pins before joining, because this lets you adjust the placement of the horns, ears, and arms so the finished bull sits symmetrically on a shelf.
• Block the finished pieces lightly with a cool steam setting before assembly, because this relaxes the fibers and helps the curved horn shapes hold their form once sewn into place.

Proper care will keep the amigurumi looking

Frequently Asked Questions

What yarn and hook should I use for the Benny the Bull amigurumi?

You'll need worsted weight yarn in black, white, and red to capture Benny's classic coloring, along with a 3.5 mm crochet hook. Worsted weight yarn provides the right structure to keep Benny the Bull amigurumi's horns and ears standing upright without becoming floppy.

How long does it take to crochet the Benny the Bull amigurumi?

Most crocheters complete the Benny the Bull amigurumi in 2-4 hours, depending on your pace and how many breaks you take. The pattern works up quickly because worsted weight yarn builds shape fast, though the small horn and ear pieces add a bit of extra finishing time.

Is the Benny the Bull amigurumi pattern suitable for beginners?

This pattern is rated Intermediate, so some experience with amigurumi basics like magic rings, single crochet, and color changes is helpful. You'll also work techniques like decreases and the stitch detail for the facial details, which are manageable if you've completed a few small projects before.

Can I sell finished Benny the Bull amigurumi toys I make from this pattern?

Yes, you're generally welcome to sell finished Benny the Bull amigurumi toys made from this pattern at craft fairs, online shops, or local markets. Just be sure to credit the pattern designer when listing your items and avoid mass-producing in factory quantities.

Can I resize the Benny the Bull amigurumi by changing yarn weight?

You can resize the Benny the Bull amigurumi by switching to a heavier or lighter yarn, but you'll need to adjust your hook size accordingly to keep the stitch tension balanced. Keep in mind that resizing changes the amount of stuffing needed and may shift the proportions of the horns and snout

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