Loki Amigurumi For Mythology Inspired Toy Collections

Finished Loki amigurumi

Finished Size: Approximately 10 inches (25 cm) tall and 7 inches (18 cm) wide

Skill Level: Intermediate

Estimated Time: 2-4 hours

Hook Size: 3.5 mm

Yarn: worsted yarn

Notions: Yarn needle, stitch marker, polyfill

Gauge: Approximately 12 sc x 14 rounds = 4 inches with 3.5 mm hook

What Makes This Pattern Special

Loki eyes - black yarn detail

Few characters invite the kind of sly, theatrical personality that translates so well into yarn, and this Loki amigurumi captures that energy in a compact, huggable form. Worked in worsted weight yarn on a 3.5 mm hook, the finished piece measures approximately 10 inches (25 cm) tall and 7 inches (18 cm) wide, making it a comfortable palm-sized companion rather than a shelf-dominating display. The stitches sit close and even, giving the green and gold accents a smooth surface that still shows the gentle texture of single crochet rounds, so the horns, cape collar, and scepter all read clearly without losing the softness that makes amigurumi so satisfying to hold.

This is an Intermediate level pattern, so you can expect to work with decreases for a clean finish around the face and horns, the stitch detail to define the eye sockets and brow line, and shaping rows to shape the angled shoulders of the cape. The stitch counts are spelled out at every round, and the color changes are limited to a few well-placed sections rather than full work, so the rhythm stays steady from start to finish. A small a small practice piece in the round is recommended before you begin the head, since the 3.5 mm hook and worsted yarn combination can vary slightly between brands and you want the stuffing to sit firmly without distorting the shape.

Imagine this figure perched on a desk during a Marvel movie marathon, propped on a bookshelf between paperbacks, or tucked into the crook of a couch cushion as a quiet reading companion. It also makes a thoughtful handmade gift for the friend who quotes the trickster god more often than is strictly reasonable. Crocheters tend to reach for a project like this when they want something that looks intricate and character-driven but still moves quickly, and at roughly ten inches tall it finishes in a satisfying handful of evenings rather than a long-term commitment.

Reading This Pattern: Key Notes

This Loki amigurumi is a rewarding project for anyone who enjoys character work with a bit of attitude. The flowing cape, layered tunic, and signature horned helmet give the figure plenty of visual interest, yet the construction stays approachable for crocheters who already have a few amigurumi under their belt. If you love Marvel, Norse mythology, or simply want a striking figure for a shelf display, this pattern delivers a recognizable result without requiring weeks of work. It also makes a thoughtful handmade gift for the trickster god fan in your life.

Yarn choice matters more here than it does for simpler dolls, because the silhouette relies on stitch definition and drape. A medium worsted weight acrylic works beautifully for the body and face, holding the shape of the helmet horns and keeping the stitches tight enough to hide stuffing. For the cape and tunic, a slightly lighter DK or a soft worsted with good drape helps the fabric fall naturally rather than stand stiff. Color options can follow the classic comic palette of black, green, and gold, or you can lean into a more muted Asgardian look with deep emerald, charcoal, and antique brass. Finished, the figure measures approximately 10 inches (25 cm) tall and 7 inches (18 cm) wide, so plan your yarn quantities accordingly if you want a larger or smaller version.

One common pitfall with this design is visible shaping at the neck where the head meets the body. Because the helmet sits low and the cape frames the shoulders, any gap or sudden increase reads instantly. Work your decreases a round or two earlier than you think you need, and use the decreases to keep the surface smooth. Stuff the neck firmly before closing the final round, since a soft neck will collapse under the weight of the helmet and horns.

Materials and Supplies You'll Need

Loki mouth - black yarn detail
MaterialDetails
Yarnworsted yarn in green, gold, cream, black, white, dark green
Hook3.5 mm crochet hook
StuffingPolyfill or fiberfill
EyesSafety eyes or embroidery thread
ExtrasYarn needle, stitch markers, scissors

Gauge: Approximately 12 sc x 14 rounds = 4 inches with 3.5 mm hook. Not critical but aim for tight, even stitches, if stuffing shows through, go down one hook size.

Abbreviations You'll Need to Know

Note: This pattern uses US crochet terms. All rounds are worked in continuous rounds unless stated otherwise. Use a stitch marker in the first stitch of each round.

AbbreviationMeaning
scSingle crochet
incIncrease (2 sc in same stitch)
decDecrease (sc 2 together)
sl stSlip stitch
chChain

The Full Pattern, Step by Step

Loki hair - black yarn detail

head, cream yarn

Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring (6)

Rnd 2: inc around (12)

Rnd 3: (1 sc, inc) x 6 (18)

Rnd 4: (2 sc, inc) x 6 (24)

Rnd 5: (3 sc, inc) x 6 (30)

Rnd 6: sc around (30)

Rnd 7: sc around (30)

Rnd 8: (3 sc, dec) x 6 (24)

Rnd 9: (2 sc, dec) x 6 (18)

Rnd 10: (1 sc, dec) x 6 (12)

Rnd 11: dec around (6)

Rnd 12: fasten off, close hole (6)

Switch to black yarn for the eyes.

eyes (make 2), black yarn

Use 6 mm safety eyes or embroidered eyes; place them on the upper half of the head, about one eye-width apart.

If using safety eyes, insert the posts before closing the head opening and secure the backs firmly on the inside.

If embroidering, work two small black satin stitches, then add a tiny white stitch highlight if desired.

mouth, black yarn

Embroider the mouth with black or dark brown thread after the eyes are placed.

Use a single curved satin stitch or back stitch, centered below the eyes and about 1.5 cm wide.

hair, black yarn

Row 1: Ch 26, sc in 2nd ch from hook and across (25)

Row 2: Ch 1, turn, sc across (25)

Row 3: Ch 1, turn, sc across (25)

Row 4: Ch 1, turn, sc across (25)

Row 5: Ch 1, turn, sc across (25)

Row 6: Ch 1, turn, sc across (25)

Row 7: Ch 1, turn, sc across (25)

Switch to gold yarn for the horns.

horns (make 2), gold yarn

Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring (6)

Rnd 2: sc around (6)

Rnd 3: sc around (6)

Rnd 4: sc around (6)

Rnd 5: sc around (6)

Rnd 6: sc around (6)

Rnd 7: sc around (6)

Rnd 8: fasten off, close hole (6)

Switch to green yarn for the torso.

torso, green yarn

Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring (6)

Rnd 2: inc around (12)

Rnd 3: (1 sc, inc) x 6 (18)

Rnd 4: (2 sc, inc) x 6 (24)

Rnd 5: (11 sc, inc) x 2 (26)

Rnd 6: sc around (26)

Rnd 7: sc around (26)

Rnd 8: sc around (26)

Rnd 9: sc around (26)

Rnd 10: sc around (26)

Rnd 11: (11 sc, dec) x 2 (24)

Rnd 12: (2 sc, dec) x 6 (18)

Rnd 13: (1 sc, dec) x 6 (12)

Rnd 14: dec around (6)

Rnd 15: fasten off, close hole (6)

arms (make 2), green yarn

Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring (6)

Rnd 2: inc around (12)

Rnd 3: (1 sc, inc) x 3 (2 sc, inc) x 2 (17)

Rnd 4: sc around (17)

Rnd 5: sc around (17)

Rnd 6: sc around (17)

Rnd 7: sc around (17)

Rnd 8: sc around (17)

Rnd 9: sc around (17)

Rnd 10: sc around (17)

Rnd 11: sc around (17)

Switch to cream yarn for the hands.

hands (make 2), cream yarn

Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring (6)

Rnd 2: inc around (12)

Rnd 3: (1 sc, inc) x 6 (18)

Rnd 4: (2 sc, inc) x 6 (24)

Rnd 5: sc around (24)

Rnd 6: (2 sc, dec) x 6 (18)

Rnd 7: (1 sc, dec) x 6 (12)

Rnd 8: dec around (6)

Rnd 9: fasten off, close hole (6)

Switch to green yarn for the legs.

legs (make 2), green yarn

Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring (6)

Rnd 2: inc around (12)

Rnd 3: (1 sc, inc) x 6 (18)

Rnd 4: sc around (18)

Rnd 5: sc around (18)

Rnd 6: sc around (18)

Rnd 7: sc around (18)

Rnd 8: sc around (18)

Rnd 9: sc around (18)

Rnd 10: sc around (18)

Rnd 11: sc around (18)

feet (make 2), green yarn

Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring (6)

Rnd 2: inc around (12)

Rnd 3: (1 sc, inc) x 6 (18)

Rnd 4: (2 sc, inc) x 6 (24)

Rnd 5: sc around (24)

Rnd 6: (2 sc, dec) x 6 (18)

Rnd 7: (1 sc, dec) x 6 (12)

Rnd 8: dec around (6)

Rnd 9: fasten off, close hole (6)

cape, green yarn

Rnd 1: Ch 23, join with sl st to form ring, sc in each ch around (22)

Rnd 2: sc around (22)

Rnd 3: sc around (22)

Rnd 4: sc around (22)

Rnd 5: sc around (22)

Rnd 6: sc around (22)

Rnd 7: sc around (22)

Fasten off. Do not stuff.

Switch to gold yarn for the chest armor.

chest armor, gold yarn

Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring (6)

Rnd 2: inc around (12)

Rnd 3: (1 sc, inc) x 3 (2 sc, inc) x 2 (17)

Rnd 4: sc around (17)

Rnd 5: sc around (17)

Rnd 6: sc around (17)

Rnd 7: sc around (17)

Rnd 8: sc around (17)

Rnd 9: sc around (17)

Rnd 10: sc around (17)

Rnd 11: sc around (17)

Rnd 12: (dec) x 1 (1 sc, dec) x 5 (11)

Rnd 13: (dec) x 4 (1 sc, dec) x 1 (6)

Rnd 14: fasten off, close hole (6)

waist belt, gold yarn

Rnd 1: Ch 13, join with sl st to form ring, sc in each ch around (12)

Rnd 2: sc around (12)

Rnd 3: sc around (12)

Rnd 4: sc around (12)

Fasten off. Do not stuff.

boot trim (make 2), gold yarn

Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring (6)

Rnd 2: inc around (12)

Rnd 3: (1 sc, inc) x 6 (18)

Rnd 4: (2 sc, inc) x 6 (24)

Rnd 5: (5 sc, inc) x 4 (28)

Rnd 6: (2 sc, dec) x 2 (3 sc, dec) x 4 (22)

Rnd 7: (1 sc, dec) x 2 (2 sc, dec) x 4 (16)

Rnd 8: (dec) x 2 (1 sc, dec) x 4 (10)

Rnd 9: (dec) x 2 (1 sc, dec) x 2 (6)

Rnd 10: fasten off, close hole (6)

Switch to white yarn for the face.

face, white yarn

Embroider the face details with matching yarn after the eyes are placed.

Use satin stitch, back stitch, or lazy-daisy stitches for the mouth, cheeks, and any visible markings.

Switch to green yarn for the body.

body, green yarn

Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring (6)

Rnd 2: inc around (12)

Rnd 3: (1 sc, inc) x 6 (18)

Rnd 4: (2 sc, inc) x 6 (24)

Rnd 5: (11 sc, inc) x 2 (26)

Rnd 6: sc around (26)

Rnd 7: sc around (26)

Rnd 8: sc around (26)

Rnd 9: sc around (26)

Rnd 10: sc around (26)

Rnd 11: (11 sc, dec) x 2 (24)

Rnd 12: (2 sc, dec) x 6 (18)

Rnd 13: (1 sc, dec) x 6 (12)

Rnd 14: dec around (6)

Rnd 15: fasten off, close hole (6)

Switch to gold yarn for the helmet.

helmet, gold yarn

Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring (6)

Rnd 2: inc around (12)

Rnd 3: (1 sc, inc) x 6 (18)

Rnd 4: (2 sc, inc) x 6 (24)

Rnd 5: sc around (24)

Rnd 6: (2 sc, dec) x 6 (18)

Rnd 7: (1 sc, dec) x 6 (12)

Rnd 8: dec around (6)

Rnd 9: fasten off, close hole (6)

Switch to green yarn for the tunic.

tunic, green yarn

Row 1: Ch 15, sc in 2nd ch from hook and across (14)

Row 2: Ch 1, turn, sc across (14)

Row 3: Ch 1, turn, sc across (14)

Row 4: Ch 1, turn, sc across (14)

Row 5: Ch 1, turn, sc across (14)

Row 6: Ch 1, turn, sc across (14)

Row 7: Ch 1, turn, sc across (14)

Row 8: Ch 1, turn, sc across (14)

Row 9: Ch 1, turn, sc across (14)

Row 10: Ch 1, turn, sc across (14)

Row 11: Ch 1, turn, sc across (14)

Row 12: Ch 1, turn, sc across (14)

Fasten off, leaving long tail for sewing

boots (make 2), green yarn

Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring (6)

Rnd 2: (1 sc, inc) x 3 (9)

Rnd 3: sc around (9)

Rnd 4: sc around (9)

Rnd 5: (1 sc, dec) x 3 (6)

Rnd 6: fasten off, close hole (6)

Switch to green with gold accent yarn for the foot.

foot (make 2), green with gold accent yarn

Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring (6)

Rnd 2: inc around (12)

Rnd 3: dec around (6)

Rnd 4: fasten off, close hole (6)

Switch to gold yarn for the chest detail.

chest detail, gold yarn

Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring (6)

Rnd 2: sc around (6)

Rnd 3: sc around (6)

Rnd 4: sc around (6)

Rnd 5: sc around (6)

Rnd 6: sc around (6)

Rnd 7: sc around (6)

Rnd 8: sc around (6)

Rnd 9: sc around (6)

Rnd 10: fasten off, close hole (6)

Final Stitch Counts

  • head: 30 stitches at widest point
  • eyes (x 2): See pattern
  • mouth: See pattern
  • hair: 25 stitches at widest point
  • horns (x 2): 6 stitches at widest point
  • torso: 26 stitches at widest point
  • arms (x 2): 17 stitches at widest point
  • hands (x 2): 24 stitches at widest point
  • legs (x 2): 18 stitches at widest point
  • feet (x 2): 24 stitches at widest point
  • cape: 22 stitches at widest point
  • chest armor: 17 stitches at widest point
  • waist belt: 12 stitches at widest point
  • boot trim (x 2): 28 stitches at widest point
  • face: See pattern
  • body: 26 stitches at widest point
  • helmet: 24 stitches at widest point
  • tunic: 14 stitches at widest point
  • boots (x 2): 9 stitches at widest point
  • foot (x 2): 12 stitches at widest point
  • chest detail: 6 stitches at widest point

How to Assemble the Finished Parts

1. Stuff head, torso, hands, feet, body, boots, foot firmly with polyfill for stability. Shape as you go, pressing and molding to match the reference photo. Add extra stuffing to the base for a sturdy foundation.

2. Attach eyes to the head. Position on the upper half of the head, below the horns, spaced about one eye-width apart. Secure firmly with embroidery thread or fabric glue. Embroider a small line below each eye for a more expressive look.

3. Sew mouth to the head. Pin in place before sewing to check positioning. Use whipstitch for a secure attachment.

4. Sew hair to the head, covering the top and back of the head. Anchor along the hairline with whipstitch, blending the parting line into the scalp stitches. Keep stitches small so they hide in the yarn.

5. Sew horns to the top of the head. Position symmetrically, about 1 cm apart, angled slightly outward. Pin in place before sewing to check alignment from all angles. Use the long tail left for sewing and whipstitch around the base.

6. Sew face to the head. Pin in place before sewing to check positioning. Use whipstitch for a secure attachment.

7. Sew arms to the body. Align carefully and pin in place before sewing. Check from all angles, then sew firmly with whipstitch.

8. Sew legs to the body. Align carefully and pin in place before sewing. Check from all angles, then sew firmly with whipstitch.

9. Slip cape over the body; do not stuff it. Whipstitch the top edge to the shoulders or neckline, and leave the hem free so the garment drapes naturally. Pin evenly before sewing to keep the opening centered.

10. Sew chest armor in place following the reference photo. Pin first to check positioning, then whipstitch with matching yarn, weaving in the ends securely.

11. Sew waist belt in place following the reference photo. Pin first to check positioning, then whipstitch with matching yarn, weaving in the ends securely.

12. Sew boot trim in place following the reference photo. Pin first to check positioning, then whipstitch with matching yarn, weaving in the ends securely.

13. Sew helmet in place following the reference photo. Pin first to check positioning, then whipstitch with matching yarn, weaving in the ends securely.

14. Sew tunic in place following the reference photo. Pin first to check positioning, then whipstitch with matching yarn, weaving in the ends securely.

15. Sew chest detail in place following the reference photo. Pin first to check positioning, then whipstitch with matching yarn, weaving in the ends securely.

16. Check all seams are secure. Gently tug each attached piece to test. Trim any loose yarn ends with sharp scissors. Weave in all remaining tails with a needle, passing through at least 3 stitches in each direction to prevent unraveling. Give the finished piece a gentle squeeze to distribute stuffing evenly and shape the final form.

Maker Tips and Keeping It Clean

This Loki amigurumi uses a 3.5 mm hook, which gives a firm fabric that holds the shaping of his horns, helmet details, and layered cape. The intermediate skill level use you are comfortable with decreases, the stitch detail, shaping rows, and basic color work, so the tips below lean into those techniques rather than explaining them from scratch.

  • Place a stitch marker in the first stitch of every round and move it up at the start of each new round, because the dense single crochet fabric at this gauge makes it easy to lose track and create a jog in the spiral.
  • Use decreases rather than standard sc 2 tog throughout the head, body, and limbs, since the smoother decrease line keeps Loki's facial features and jawline looking clean without visible gaps or ridges.
  • Maintain even tension by wrapping the yarn with the same pressure on every stitch, because inconsistent tension will distort the helmet curve and make the horns lean unevenly when attached.
  • Check your gauge on a small swatch before starting the head, because a 3.5 mm hook paired with the recommended yarn weight produces a specific stitch count per inch that affects the final proportions of the face and helmet.
  • Stuff the head and body firmly with polyester fiberfill, adding small amounts gradually and shaping with the back of a crochet hook so the fabric stays smooth and the features sit well without lumps showing through.
  • Use the stitch detail to add the green and gold accents on the cape and tunic after the pieces are assembled, because this technique lets you lay straight lines and curves on top of the finished fabric without distorting the base stitches.
  • Join limbs with a sturdy whip stitch through both layers of fabric, pulling each stitch snug so the arms and legs sit securely and can handle gentle play without wobbling at the seams.
  • Weave in ends with a needle along the inside

    Frequently Asked Questions

    What yarn weight and hook size should I use for the Loki amigurumi?

    The Loki amigurumi is designed for worsted weight yarn paired with a 3.5 mm crochet hook. This combination gives the tight stitch definition needed for amigurumi while keeping the finished figure soft and squishable. If your gauge looks looser than the pattern photo, drop down to a 3.0 mm hook to firm up the fabric.

    How long does it take to crochet the Loki amigurumi?

    Most crocheters complete the Loki amigurumi in 2-4 hours, depending on their pace and how many breaks they take. The body and head are the quickest pieces, while the horns and small details add a little extra time. Working in short sessions over a couple of evenings is a great way to finish without fatigue.

    Is the Loki amigurumi pattern suitable for beginners?

    The Loki amigurumi is rated as an Intermediate pattern, so some experience with amigurumi basics is helpful. You will work in continuous rounds, use the decreases, and shape small pieces like horns and a cape, which are techniques that go a little beyond absolute beginner territory. If you have finished at least one simple amigurumi before, you should be able to follow this pattern comfortably.

    Can I sell finished Loki amigurumi dolls made from this pattern?

    Yes, you are welcome to sell finished Loki amigurumi dolls made from this pattern, whether at craft fairs, online shops, or local markets. Please credit the designer when listing or promoting your handmade items. Mass production or reselling the digital pattern itself is not permitted.

    How do I customize the colors of the Loki amigurumi?

    Color customization is one of the fun parts of the Loki amigurumi

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