Pippin Pig Amigurumi For Cozy Nursery Decor

Why Crocheters Love This Design

This Pippin the Pig amigurumi doll worked in pink, magenta, white, and brown. You will crochet the head, body, snout, eyes, ears, arms, legs, feet, hands, vest, shirt, foot, button, hoof, collar, mouth, and the jacket. The pattern walks through each piece with clear round-by-round counts, then shows how to assemble and finish everything so the result matches the reference photos.

Use the pattern card as your material checklist before starting. Safety eyes give a polished look. It stands upright on its own. The instructions include embroidered mouth. Keep your tension even, count stitches at the end of shaping rounds, and check the placement notes before sewing pieces together for a clean handmade result.

A Few Notes Before We Begin

This intermediate amigurumi pattern creates a charming little piglet with a soft, rounded body, expressive face, and small details that bring real character to the finished piece. The project rewards makers who enjoy shaping three-dimensional forms and working in continuous rounds, and it suits anyone looking for a handmade gift or a cozy decorative companion for a nursery shelf. Because the construction uses simple increases and decreases combined with a few intermediate finishing techniques, crocheters with some amigurumi experience will find the rhythm satisfying without feeling overwhelmed.

For a finished size of approximately 10 inches (25 cm) tall and 7 inches (18 cm) wide, a worsted or DK weight yarn works beautifully with a 3.5 mm hook, producing a fabric that is dense enough to hold stuffing without showing gaps. A soft acrylic or cotton blend in pale pink gives the classic piglet look, while heathered gray, cream, or even a warm peach can shift the personality toward something more unexpected. You will want a small amount of black or dark brown for the facial features, and a touch of white or contrasting color for the snout details. Choosing a yarn with good stitch definition helps the shaping read clearly, especially around the snout and ears where the curves matter most.

One common pitfall in this type of project is letting the magic ring close too tightly at the start, which pulls the center inward and distorts the rounded head. To avoid this, leave a slightly longer tail when closing the ring and ease the stitches open gently before securing. Equally important, keep your tension even throughout the body rounds, since tight stitches make stuffing difficult and loose stitches let the fiberfill show through. Taking a moment to count stitches at the end of each increase round prevents the slow drift that can throw off the final proportions.

Gather These Supplies First

Material	Details
Yarn	DK yarn in pink, magenta, white, brown, black, gold, light pink
Hook	3.5 mm crochet hook
Stuffing	Polyfill or fiberfill
Eyes	Safety eyes or embroidery thread
Extras	Yarn needle, stitch markers, scissors

Gauge: Approximately 16 sc x 20 rounds = 4 inches with 3.5 mm hook. Not critical but aim for tight, even stitches, if stuffing shows through, go down one hook size.

Stitch Guide for This Pattern

Note: This pattern uses US crochet terms. All rounds are worked in continuous rounds unless stated otherwise. Use a stitch marker in the first stitch of each round.

Abbreviation	Meaning
sc	Single crochet
inc	Increase (2 sc in same stitch)
dec	Decrease (sc 2 together)
sl st	Slip stitch
ch	Chain

Let's Make It: Instructions

head, pink yarn

Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring (6)

Rnd 2: inc around (12)

Rnd 3: (1 sc, inc) x 6 (18)

Rnd 4: (2 sc, inc) x 6 (24)

Rnd 5: (3 sc, inc) x 6 (30)

Rnd 6: sc around (30)

Rnd 7: sc around (30)

Rnd 8: (3 sc, dec) x 6 (24)

Rnd 9: (2 sc, dec) x 6 (18)

Rnd 10: (1 sc, dec) x 6 (12)

Rnd 11: dec around (6)

Rnd 12: fasten off, close hole (6)

body, pink yarn

Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring (6)

Rnd 2: inc around (12)

Rnd 3: (1 sc, inc) x 6 (18)

Rnd 4: (2 sc, inc) x 6 (24)

Rnd 5: (11 sc, inc) x 2 (26)

Rnd 6: sc around (26)

Rnd 7: sc around (26)

Rnd 8: sc around (26)

Rnd 9: sc around (26)

Rnd 10: sc around (26)

Rnd 11: (11 sc, dec) x 2 (24)

Rnd 12: (2 sc, dec) x 6 (18)

Rnd 13: (1 sc, dec) x 6 (12)

Rnd 14: dec around (6)

Rnd 15: fasten off, close hole (6)

snout, pink yarn

Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring (6)

Rnd 2: inc around (12)

Rnd 3: sc around (12)

Rnd 4: sc around (12)

Rnd 5: sc around (12)

Rnd 6: dec around (6)

Rnd 7: fasten off, close hole (6)

Switch to black yarn for the eyes.

eyes (make 2), black yarn

Use 6 mm safety eyes or embroidered eyes; place them on the upper half of the head, about one eye-width apart.

If using safety eyes, insert the posts before closing the head opening and secure the backs firmly on the inside.

If embroidering, work two small black satin stitches, then add a tiny white stitch highlight if desired.

Switch to pink yarn for the ears.

ears (make 2), pink yarn

Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring (6)

Rnd 2: (2 sc, inc) x 2 (8)

Rnd 3: sc around (8)

Rnd 4: sc around (8)

Rnd 5: sc around (8)

Rnd 6: (2 sc, dec) x 2 (6)

arms (make 2), pink yarn

Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring (6)

Rnd 2: inc around (12)

Rnd 3: (1 sc, inc) x 3 (2 sc, inc) x 2 (17)

Rnd 4: sc around (17)

Rnd 5: sc around (17)

Rnd 6: sc around (17)

Rnd 7: sc around (17)

Rnd 8: sc around (17)

Rnd 9: sc around (17)

Rnd 10: sc around (17)

Rnd 11: sc around (17)

legs (make 2), pink yarn

Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring (6)

Rnd 2: inc around (12)

Rnd 3: (1 sc, inc) x 6 (18)

Rnd 4: sc around (18)

Rnd 5: sc around (18)

Rnd 6: sc around (18)

Rnd 7: sc around (18)

Rnd 8: sc around (18)

Rnd 9: sc around (18)

Rnd 10: sc around (18)

Rnd 11: sc around (18)

Switch to brown yarn for the feet.

feet (make 2), brown yarn

Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring (6)

Rnd 2: inc around (12)

Rnd 3: (1 sc, inc) x 6 (18)

Rnd 4: (2 sc, inc) x 6 (24)

Rnd 5: sc around (24)

Rnd 6: (2 sc, dec) x 6 (18)

Rnd 7: (1 sc, dec) x 6 (12)

Rnd 8: dec around (6)

Rnd 9: fasten off, close hole (6)

hands (make 2), brown yarn

Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring (6)

Rnd 2: inc around (12)

Rnd 3: (1 sc, inc) x 6 (18)

Rnd 4: (2 sc, inc) x 6 (24)

Rnd 5: sc around (24)

Rnd 6: (2 sc, dec) x 6 (18)

Rnd 7: (1 sc, dec) x 6 (12)

Rnd 8: dec around (6)

Rnd 9: fasten off, close hole (6)

Switch to magenta yarn for the vest.

vest, magenta yarn

Row 1: Ch 11, sc in 2nd ch from hook and across (10)

Row 2: Ch 1, turn, sc across (10)

Row 3: Ch 1, turn, sc across (10)

Row 4: Ch 1, turn, sc across (10)

Row 5: Ch 1, turn, sc across (10)

Row 6: Ch 1, turn, sc across (10)

Row 7: Ch 1, turn, sc across (10)

Row 8: Ch 1, turn, sc across (10)

Switch to white yarn for the shirt.

shirt, white yarn

Row 1: Ch 15, sc in 2nd ch from hook and across (14)

Row 2: Ch 1, turn, sc across (14)

Row 3: Ch 1, turn, sc across (14)

Row 4: Ch 1, turn, sc across (14)

Row 5: Ch 1, turn, sc across (14)

Row 6: Ch 1, turn, sc across (14)

Row 7: Ch 1, turn, sc across (14)

Row 8: Ch 1, turn, sc across (14)

Row 9: Ch 1, turn, sc across (14)

Row 10: Ch 1, turn, sc across (14)

Row 11: Ch 1, turn, sc across (14)

Row 12: Ch 1, turn, sc across (14)

Switch to brown yarn for the foot.

foot (make 2), brown yarn

Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring (6)

Rnd 2: inc around (12)

Rnd 3: dec around (6)

Rnd 4: fasten off, close hole (6)

Switch to gold yarn for the button.

button (make 2), gold yarn

Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring (6)

Fasten off (6 sts)

Switch to brown yarn for the hoof.

hoof (make 4), brown yarn

Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring (6)

Rnd 2: inc around (12)

Rnd 3: sc around (12)

Rnd 4: sc around (12)

Rnd 5: dec around (6)

Rnd 6: fasten off, close hole (6)

Switch to magenta yarn for the collar.

collar, magenta yarn

Rnd 1: Ch 19, join with sl st to form ring, sc in each ch around (18)

Rnd 2: sc around (18)

Rnd 3: sc around (18)

Rnd 4: sc around (18)

Rnd 5: sc around (18)

Rnd 6: sc around (18)

Rnd 7: sc around (18)

Rnd 8: sc around (18)

Fasten off. Do not stuff.

Switch to black yarn for the mouth.

mouth, black yarn

Embroider the mouth with black or dark brown thread after the eyes are placed.

Use a single curved satin stitch or back stitch, centered below the eyes and about 1.5 cm wide.

Switch to magenta yarn for the jacket.

jacket, magenta yarn

Row 1: Ch 15, sc in 2nd ch from hook and across (14)

Row 2: Ch 1, turn, sc across (14)

Row 3: Ch 1, turn, sc across (14)

Row 4: Ch 1, turn, sc across (14)

Row 5: Ch 1, turn, sc across (14)

Row 6: Ch 1, turn, sc across (14)

Row 7: Ch 1, turn, sc across (14)

Row 8: Ch 1, turn, sc across (14)

Row 9: Ch 1, turn, sc across (14)

Row 10: Ch 1, turn, sc across (14)

Row 11: Ch 1, turn, sc across (14)

Row 12: Ch 1, turn, sc across (14)

Fasten off, leaving long tail for sewing

Putting the Pieces Together

1. Stuff head, body, feet, hands, foot firmly with polyfill for stability. Shape as you go, pressing and molding to match the reference photo. Add extra stuffing to the base for a sturdy foundation.

2. Sew snout to the front of the head. Center between the eyes, slightly below the eye line. Stuff lightly with polyfill before closing for a 3D effect. Pin in place before sewing to check alignment from all angles.

3. Attach eyes to the head. Position on the upper half of the head, spaced about one eye-width apart. Secure firmly with embroidery thread or fabric glue. Embroider a small line below each eye for a more expressive look.

4. Sew ears to the sides of the head. Position on the upper sides of the head, angled outward. Pin in place before sewing to check alignment from all angles. Use the long tail left for sewing and whipstitch around the base.

5. Sew mouth to the head. Pin in place before sewing to check positioning. Use whipstitch for a secure attachment.

6. Sew arms to the body. Align carefully and pin in place before sewing. Check from all angles, then sew firmly with whipstitch.

7. Sew legs to the body. Align carefully and pin in place before sewing. Check from all angles, then sew firmly with whipstitch.

8. Slip shirt over the body; do not stuff it. Whipstitch the top edge to the shoulders or neckline, and leave the hem free so the garment drapes naturally. Pin evenly before sewing to keep the opening centered.

9. Drape collar around the neck and sew 2-3 discreet anchor points at the back so it stays centered. Do not pull it tight; leave enough room for the head to sit naturally.

10. Sew vest in place following the reference photo. Pin first to check positioning, then whipstitch with matching yarn, weaving in the ends securely.

11. Sew button in place following the reference photo. Pin first to check positioning, then whipstitch with matching yarn, weaving in the ends securely.

12. Sew hoof in place following the reference photo. Pin first to check positioning, then whipstitch with matching yarn, weaving in the ends securely.

13. Sew jacket in place following the reference photo. Pin first to check positioning, then whipstitch with matching yarn, weaving in the ends securely.

14. Check all seams are secure. Gently tug each attached piece to test. Trim any loose yarn ends with sharp scissors. Weave in all remaining tails with a needle, passing through at least 3 stitches in each direction to prevent unraveling. Give the finished piece a gentle squeeze to distribute stuffing evenly and shape the final form.

Helpful Tips and Cleaning Advice

Working on the Pippin Pig amigurumi with a 3.5 mm hook requires steady tension and a few intermediate techniques to keep the shaping crisp. The following tips focus on the practical details that help the finished pig look well proportioned and hold up to gentle play.

• Place a removable stitch marker in the first stitch of every round and move it up at the start of the next round, because amigurumi is worked in a continuous spiral and losing track of the join makes decreases land in the wrong place.
• Use the decreases (inv dec) instead of a standard two-together decrease on the head, snout, and leg shaping, since it closes the stitch gap neatly and keeps the surface smooth for the later embroidery of the eyes and nostrils.
• Maintain a slightly tighter tension than you would for a flat panel, because looser stitches let the white stuffing show through and weaken the fabric around small openings such as the ears and tail.
• Stuff the body and head firmly with polyester fiberfill in small pinches before closing each section, because under-stuffed pieces collapse between rounds and create visible dents where decreases meet.
• Check your gauge on the first five rounds of the body before committing to the full pattern, because a 3.5 mm hook combined with the recommended yarn should give roughly 5 single crochets per inch; if your count is off, the pig will end up taller or rounder than designed.
• When joining the legs to the body, work through both layers with a whip stitch and a yarn needle, because surface sewing keeps the seam flexible and avoids the bulk that comes from crocheting the pieces together.
• Carry yarn tails along the inside of the piece for at least 1 inch before trimming, because short tails can work their way out through the stitches during handling and leave

  Common Questions About This Pattern

  What skill level is required for the Pippin Pig amigurumi pattern?

  The Pippin Pig amigurumi pattern is rated Intermediate, so you should be comfortable with amigurumi-specific techniques such as decreases, working in continuous spiral rounds, and precise stitch counting. If you have completed a few basic amigurumi projects before, you will likely find the shaping and assembly steps manageable. Beginners can still attempt it, but expect a learning curve with the smaller pieces and finishing details.

  How long does it take to crochet the Pippin Pig amigurumi?

  Most crocheters complete the Pippin Pig amigurumi in 2-4 hours, depending on your pace and how much time you spend on finishing details. Experienced amigurumi makers often finish closer to the two-hour mark, while those new to intermediate techniques may need the full four hours. Blocking, sewing pieces together, and embroidering the face are usually what extend the project toward the upper end of that range.

  What hook and yarn should I use for the Pippin Pig amigurumi?

  The pattern calls for a 3.5 mm crochet hook paired with DK weight yarn, which produces a tight, even fabric that holds the stuffing securely inside the doll. Using a hook slightly smaller than what your yarn ball band recommends is typical for amigurumi to prevent visible gaps between stitches. Cotton or cotton-blend DK yarns work especially well because they give the Pippin Pig amigurumi a soft but structured shape.

  Can I sell finished Pippin il Maialino Un

  Keep Crocheting: More Patterns

  Love this pattern? Check out more free crochet patterns:

  • Gingerbread Man Amigurumi For Christmas Tree Ornaments
  • Totoro Amigurumi For Studio Ghibli Fans And Collectors
  • Dalmatian Dog Amigurumi For Nursery Shelf Display
  • Football Player Amigurumi For Sports Fan Gifts
  • Black Bull Amigurumi For Taurus Zodiac Gifts