Goku Amigurumi For Kids
Finished Size: Approximately 12 inches (30 cm) tall and 7 inches (18 cm) wide
Skill Level: Intermediate
Estimated Time: 2-4 hours
Hook Size: 4 mm
Yarn: worsted yarn
Notions: Yarn needle, stitch marker, polyfill
Gauge: Approximately 12 sc x 14 rounds = 4 inches with 4 mm hook
Reasons You'll Enjoy Making This
This Goku amigurumi is an amigurumi doll worked in turquoise, orange, blue, and peach. You will crochet the head, hair, eyes, eyebrows, torso, undershirt, belt, pants, arms, hands, wristbands, boots, boot trim, chest emblem, body, leg, foot, and the shirt. The pattern walks through each piece with clear round-by-round counts, then shows how to assemble and finish everything so the result matches the reference photos.
Use the pattern card as your material checklist before starting. Safety eyes give a polished look. It stands upright on its own. The instructions include spiky hair. Keep your tension even, count stitches at the end of shaping rounds, and check the placement notes before sewing pieces together for a clean handmade result.
Before You Start: Pattern Notes
Everything You Need to Make This
| Material | Details |
|---|---|
| Yarn | worsted yarn in turquoise, orange, blue, peach, green, white, teal, cream, beige, black, skin tone, red |
| Hook | 4 mm crochet hook |
| Stuffing | Polyfill or fiberfill |
| Eyes | Safety eyes or embroidery thread |
| Extras | Yarn needle, stitch markers, scissors |
Gauge: Approximately 12 sc x 14 rounds = 4 inches with 4 mm hook. Not critical but aim for tight, even stitches, if stuffing shows through, go down one hook size.
Stitches and Abbreviations Used
Note: This pattern uses US crochet terms. All rounds are worked in continuous rounds unless stated otherwise. Use a stitch marker in the first stitch of each round.
| Abbreviation | Meaning |
|---|---|
| sc | Single crochet |
| inc | Increase (2 sc in same stitch) |
| dec | Decrease (sc 2 together) |
| sl st | Slip stitch |
| ch | Chain |
The Full Pattern, Step by Step
head, peach yarn
Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring (6)
Rnd 2: inc around (12)
Rnd 3: (1 sc, inc) x 6 (18)
Rnd 4: (2 sc, inc) x 6 (24)
Rnd 5: (3 sc, inc) x 6 (30)
Rnd 6: sc around (30)
Rnd 7: sc around (30)
Rnd 8: sc around (30)
Rnd 9: sc around (30)
Rnd 10: (3 sc, dec) x 6 (24)
Rnd 11: (2 sc, dec) x 6 (18)
Rnd 12: (1 sc, dec) x 6 (12)
Rnd 13: dec around (6)
Rnd 14: fasten off, close hole (6)
Switch to turquoise yarn for the hair.
hair, turquoise yarn
Row 1: Ch 26, sc in 2nd ch from hook and across (25)
Row 2: Ch 1, turn, sc across (25)
Row 3: Ch 1, turn, sc across (25)
Row 4: Ch 1, turn, sc across (25)
Row 5: Ch 1, turn, sc across (25)
Row 6: Ch 1, turn, sc across (25)
Row 7: Ch 1, turn, sc across (25)
Row 8: Ch 1, turn, sc across (25)
Row 9: Ch 1, turn, sc across (25)
Switch to green yarn for the eyes.
eyes (make 2), green yarn
Use 6 mm safety eyes or embroidered eyes; place them on the upper half of the head, about one eye-width apart.
If using safety eyes, insert the posts before closing the head opening and secure the backs firmly on the inside.
If embroidering, work two small black satin stitches, then add a tiny white stitch highlight if desired.
Switch to turquoise yarn for the eyebrows.
eyebrows (make 2), turquoise yarn
Embroider this facial detail with black thread after the head is closed.
Use short straight stitches or satin stitch, keeping the line light and curved so it sits naturally above the eye.
Switch to orange yarn for the torso.
torso, orange yarn
Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring (6)
Rnd 2: inc around (12)
Rnd 3: (1 sc, inc) x 6 (18)
Rnd 4: (2 sc, inc) x 6 (24)
Rnd 5: (11 sc, inc) x 2 (26)
Rnd 6: sc around (26)
Rnd 7: sc around (26)
Rnd 8: sc around (26)
Rnd 9: sc around (26)
Rnd 10: sc around (26)
Rnd 11: sc around (26)
Rnd 12: sc around (26)
Rnd 13: sc around (26)
Rnd 14: sc around (26)
Rnd 15: sc around (26)
Rnd 16: sc around (26)
Rnd 17: sc around (26)
Rnd 18: (2 sc, dec) x 4 (3 sc, dec) x 2 (20)
Rnd 19: (1 sc, dec) x 4 (2 sc, dec) x 2 (14)
Rnd 20: (dec) x 4 (1 sc, dec) x 2 (8)
Rnd 21: (2 sc, dec) x 2 (6)
Rnd 22: fasten off, close hole (6)
Switch to blue yarn for the undershirt.
undershirt, blue yarn
Rnd 1: Ch 31, join with sl st to form ring, sc in each ch around (30)
Rnd 2: sc around (30)
Rnd 3: sc around (30)
Rnd 4: sc around (30)
Rnd 5: sc around (30)
Rnd 6: sc around (30)
Rnd 7: sc around (30)
Rnd 8: sc around (30)
Rnd 9: sc around (30)
Rnd 10: sc around (30)
Fasten off. Do not stuff.
belt, blue yarn
Rnd 1: Ch 13, join with sl st to form ring, sc in each ch around (12)
Rnd 2: sc around (12)
Rnd 3: sc around (12)
Rnd 4: sc around (12)
Fasten off. Do not stuff.
Switch to orange yarn for the pants.
pants (make 2), orange yarn
Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring (6)
Rnd 2: inc around (12)
Rnd 3: (1 sc, inc) x 6 (18)
Rnd 4: sc around (18)
Rnd 5: sc around (18)
Rnd 6: sc around (18)
Rnd 7: sc around (18)
Rnd 8: sc around (18)
Rnd 9: sc around (18)
Rnd 10: sc around (18)
Rnd 11: (1 sc, dec) x 6 (12)
Rnd 12: dec around (6)
Rnd 13: fasten off, close hole (6)
arms (make 2), orange yarn
Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring (6)
Rnd 2: inc around (12)
Rnd 3: (1 sc, inc) x 3 (2 sc, inc) x 2 (17)
Rnd 4: sc around (17)
Rnd 5: sc around (17)
Rnd 6: sc around (17)
Rnd 7: sc around (17)
Rnd 8: sc around (17)
Rnd 9: sc around (17)
Rnd 10: sc around (17)
Rnd 11: sc around (17)
Rnd 12: sc around (17)
Rnd 13: sc around (17)
Switch to peach yarn for the hands.
hands (make 2), peach yarn
Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring (6)
Rnd 2: inc around (12)
Rnd 3: (1 sc, inc) x 6 (18)
Rnd 4: (2 sc, inc) x 6 (24)
Rnd 5: sc around (24)
Rnd 6: (2 sc, dec) x 6 (18)
Rnd 7: (1 sc, dec) x 6 (12)
Rnd 8: dec around (6)
Rnd 9: fasten off, close hole (6)
Switch to blue yarn for the wristbands.
wristbands (make 2), blue yarn
Row 1: Ch 7, sc in 2nd ch from hook and across (6)
Row 2: Ch 1, turn, sc across (6)
Row 3: Ch 1, turn, sc across (6)
Row 4: Ch 1, turn, sc across (6)
Fasten off, leaving long tail for sewing
boots (make 2), blue yarn
Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring (6)
Rnd 2: (1 sc, inc) x 3 (9)
Rnd 3: sc around (9)
Rnd 4: sc around (9)
Rnd 5: sc around (9)
Rnd 6: (1 sc, dec) x 3 (6)
Rnd 7: fasten off, close hole (6)
Switch to turquoise yarn for the boot trim.
boot trim (make 2), turquoise yarn
Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring (6)
Rnd 2: inc around (12)
Rnd 3: (1 sc, inc) x 6 (18)
Rnd 4: (2 sc, inc) x 6 (24)
Rnd 5: (5 sc, inc) x 4 (28)
Rnd 6: (2 sc, dec) x 2 (3 sc, dec) x 4 (22)
Rnd 7: (1 sc, dec) x 2 (2 sc, dec) x 4 (16)
Rnd 8: (dec) x 2 (1 sc, dec) x 4 (10)
Rnd 9: (dec) x 2 (1 sc, dec) x 2 (6)
Rnd 10: fasten off, close hole (6)
Switch to white yarn for the chest emblem.
chest emblem, white yarn
Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring (6)
Rnd 2: inc around (12)
Rnd 3: (1 sc, inc) x 6 (18)
Rnd 4: (2 sc, inc) x 6 (24)
Rnd 5: sc around (24)
Rnd 6: (2 sc, dec) x 6 (18)
Rnd 7: (1 sc, dec) x 6 (12)
Rnd 8: dec around (6)
Rnd 9: fasten off, close hole (6)
Switch to orange yarn for the body.
body, orange yarn
Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring (6)
Rnd 2: inc around (12)
Rnd 3: (1 sc, inc) x 6 (18)
Rnd 4: (2 sc, inc) x 6 (24)
Rnd 5: (11 sc, inc) x 2 (26)
Rnd 6: sc around (26)
Rnd 7: sc around (26)
Rnd 8: sc around (26)
Rnd 9: sc around (26)
Rnd 10: sc around (26)
Rnd 11: sc around (26)
Rnd 12: sc around (26)
Rnd 13: sc around (26)
Rnd 14: sc around (26)
Rnd 15: sc around (26)
Rnd 16: sc around (26)
Rnd 17: sc around (26)
Rnd 18: (2 sc, dec) x 4 (3 sc, dec) x 2 (20)
Rnd 19: (1 sc, dec) x 4 (2 sc, dec) x 2 (14)
Rnd 20: (dec) x 4 (1 sc, dec) x 2 (8)
Rnd 21: (2 sc, dec) x 2 (6)
Rnd 22: fasten off, close hole (6)
leg (make 2), orange yarn
Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring (6)
Rnd 2: inc around (12)
Rnd 3: (1 sc, inc) x 6 (18)
Rnd 4: sc around (18)
Rnd 5: sc around (18)
Rnd 6: sc around (18)
Rnd 7: sc around (18)
Rnd 8: sc around (18)
Rnd 9: sc around (18)
Rnd 10: sc around (18)
Rnd 11: sc around (18)
Rnd 12: sc around (18)
Rnd 13: sc around (18)
Switch to blue yarn for the foot.
foot (make 2), blue yarn
Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring (6)
Rnd 2: inc around (12)
Rnd 3: dec around (6)
Rnd 4: fasten off, close hole (6)
Switch to orange yarn for the shirt.
shirt, orange yarn
Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring (6)
Rnd 2: inc around (12)
Rnd 3: (1 sc, inc) x 6 (18)
Rnd 4: sc around (18)
Rnd 5: sc around (18)
Rnd 6: sc around (18)
Rnd 7: sc around (18)
Rnd 8: sc around (18)
Rnd 9: sc around (18)
Rnd 10: sc around (18)
Rnd 11: (1 sc, dec) x 6 (12)
Rnd 12: dec around (6)
Rnd 13: fasten off, close hole (6)
Final Stitch Counts
- head: 30 stitches at widest point
- hair: 25 stitches at widest point
- eyes (x 2): See pattern
- eyebrows (x 2): See pattern
- torso: 26 stitches at widest point
- undershirt: 30 stitches at widest point
- belt: 12 stitches at widest point
- pants (x 2): 18 stitches at widest point
- arms (x 2): 17 stitches at widest point
- hands (x 2): 24 stitches at widest point
- wristbands (x 2): 6 stitches at widest point
- boots (x 2): 9 stitches at widest point
- boot trim (x 2): 28 stitches at widest point
- chest emblem: 24 stitches at widest point
- body: 26 stitches at widest point
- leg (x 2): 18 stitches at widest point
- foot (x 2): 12 stitches at widest point
- shirt: 18 stitches at widest point
Assembling Your Amigurumi
1. Stuff head, torso, hands, boots, body, foot firmly with polyfill for stability. Shape as you go, pressing and molding to match the reference photo. Add extra stuffing to the base for a sturdy foundation.
2. Sew hair to the head, covering the top and back of the head. Anchor along the hairline with whipstitch, blending the parting line into the scalp stitches. Keep stitches small so they hide in the yarn.
3. Attach eyes to the head. Position on the upper half of the head, spaced about one eye-width apart. Secure firmly with embroidery thread or fabric glue. Embroider a small line below each eye for a more expressive look.
4. Embroider eyebrows above each eye, following the natural brow arch. Use short satin or back stitches in matching yarn, keeping the line light and slightly curved. Place them about one eye-width above the eyes for a balanced expression.
5. Slip pants over the body; do not stuff it. Whipstitch the top edge to the shoulders or neckline, and leave the hem free so the garment drapes naturally. Pin evenly before sewing to keep the opening centered.
6. Sew arms to the body. Align carefully and pin in place before sewing. Check from all angles, then sew firmly with whipstitch.
7. Sew leg to the body. Align carefully and pin in place before sewing. Check from all angles, then sew firmly with whipstitch.
8. Slip shirt over the body; do not stuff it. Whipstitch the top edge to the shoulders or neckline, and leave the hem free so the garment drapes naturally. Pin evenly before sewing to keep the opening centered.
9. Sew undershirt in place following the reference photo. Pin first to check positioning, then whipstitch with matching yarn, weaving in the ends securely.
10. Sew belt in place following the reference photo. Pin first to check positioning, then whipstitch with matching yarn, weaving in the ends securely.
11. Sew wristbands in place following the reference photo. Pin first to check positioning, then whipstitch with matching yarn, weaving in the ends securely.
12. Sew boot trim in place following the reference photo. Pin first to check positioning, then whipstitch with matching yarn, weaving in the ends securely.
13. Sew chest emblem in place following the reference photo. Pin first to check positioning, then whipstitch with matching yarn, weaving in the ends securely.
14. Check all seams are secure. Gently tug each attached piece to test. Trim any loose yarn ends with sharp scissors. Weave in all remaining tails with a needle, passing through at least 3 stitches in each direction to prevent unraveling. Give the finished piece a gentle squeeze to distribute stuffing evenly and shape the final form.
Care Tips for Your Finished Amigurumi
These tips will help you crochet a clean, well-finished amigurumi doll:
- decreases: Work through the front loops only for decreases that disappear into the fabric.
- Stitch markers: Mark the first stitch of every round and you will never lose count again.
- Block flat pieces: Lightly steam any flat components before assembly, they will line up much better.
- Carry, don't cut: When changing colors within a piece, carry the unused yarn inside to minimize end-weaving.
- Embroider the details: Safety eyes aren't your only option. Embroidered features give a softer, handmade feel.
- Pin before sewing: Use sewing pins to position parts before attaching. Adjust until the shape looks right, then sew.
Caring for your Goku amigurumi:
- Hand wash in cool water with mild detergent, no machine washing.
- Air dry flat, away from direct sunlight. Sun fades colors faster than you think.
- If safety eyes are used, ensure they are locked tight, not suitable for children under 3.
- Spot clean small stains with a damp cloth instead of washing the whole piece.
Common Questions About This Pattern
How long does this take?
Most crocheters finish in 2-4 hours. Your first one will be slower, and that's completely normal.
Can I resize it?
Yes, use a smaller hook and thinner yarn for a mini, or go up in hook size and yarn weight for a larger version. The proportions stay the same.
My stitches are too loose and stuffing shows, help?
Drop down one hook size. Tight, even stitches are the single most important thing for clean amigurumi.
Safety eyes or embroidered eyes?
Both work. Safety eyes look more polished but aren't safe for babies. Embroidered eyes are softer and baby-safe.
Can I sell finished items from this pattern?
Absolutely. Sell at craft fairs, online, wherever you like, just don't distribute the pattern itself.
What yarn works best?
Cotton gives the crispest stitches and most defined shape. Acrylic is softer and more affordable, both work great.
Keep Crocheting: More Patterns
Love this pattern? Check out more free crochet patterns: