Po Amigurumi For Handmade Gifts And Collectibles

Why Crocheters Love This Design

There's something quietly satisfying about finishing a single crochet project that holds its shape in your hands, and this Po amigurumi is exactly that kind of piece. Worked in worsted weight yarn on a 3.5 mm hook, the stitches come together into a sturdy little figure that stands about 10 inches (25 cm) tall and roughly 7 inches (18 cm) wide, with the firm, even texture you expect from well-executed amigurumi. The dense fabric holds the stuffing cleanly, so the finished doll keeps its rounded silhouette whether it sits on a shelf or rides along in a tote bag.

The pattern is written for an intermediate crocheter, which means you can lean on techniques like the decreases for smooth shaping, the stitch detail for clean facial details, and shaping rows to build the gentle curve of the belly. Stitch counts are given at every round, so you can track the increases and decreases with confidence, and the worsted weight yarn keeps the rounds quick to work. A small a small practice piece in the round is recommended before you begin the body, since consistent keeping even tension is what gives Po that crisp, sculptural look rather than a soft, slumped one.

Finished, the doll works beautifully as a shelf companion in a reading nook, a handmade gift for a friend who loves the film, or a small travel buddy tucked into a backpack for a long flight. The size is generous enough to feel like a real keepsake but compact enough to display without taking over a room. If you have been wanting to practice decreases and surface embroidery on a project that forgives small variations, this pattern is a rewarding place to do it, because every round brings a recognizable shape closer to life.

Important Notes Before Beginning

This project rewards the maker with a charming companion that holds its shape through countless hugs and play sessions, making it ideal for intermediate crocheters who want to expand their shaping skills. The techniques involved, including decreases, the stitch detail for facial details, and shaping rows for curved elements like the belly and limbs, offer a satisfying challenge without crossing into overly complex territory. If you have a solid grasp of amigurumi basics and are ready to refine your finishing work, this doll will push your abilities in the best possible way. It also makes a thoughtful handmade gift for anyone who appreciates slow-made objects with personality.

Yarn choice matters more here than it might for a flat project, since the finished piece stands roughly 10 inches tall and 7 inches wide and needs to support its own weight in the limbs. A worsted weight cotton or cotton blend works beautifully, giving you crisp stitch definition so the shaping reads clearly and the surface embroidery pops. Acrylic will also perform well if you prefer a softer drape, though the stitches may look slightly less defined. For color, a neutral skin tone paired with a single accent for clothing keeps the focus on the face and expression, but two contrasting shades can create a more graphic, modern look. Plan on roughly 200 yards of the main color and 50 yards of a contrast, plus small amounts of black and white for the eyes.

One pitfall worth flagging is stuffing the head too firmly before attaching the facial features, which makes it nearly impossible to embroider the eyes and mouth without distorting the surface. Instead, lightly fill the head, pin or baste the features in place to check placement, then add stuffing gradually as you close the opening. Working with a 3.5 mm hook and maintaining consistent tension throughout will keep your stitches tight enough that the stuffing stays hidden, and your finished doll will hold its shape for years to come.

Gather These Supplies First

Material	Details
Yarn	worsted yarn in white, black, red, yellow, green, gold, brown, golden brown, blue
Hook	3.5 mm crochet hook
Stuffing	Polyfill or fiberfill
Eyes	Safety eyes or embroidery thread
Extras	Yarn needle, stitch markers, scissors

Gauge: Approximately 12 sc x 14 rounds = 4 inches with 3.5 mm hook. Not critical but aim for tight, even stitches, if stuffing shows through, go down one hook size.

Stitches and Abbreviations Used

Note: This pattern uses US crochet terms. All rounds are worked in continuous rounds unless stated otherwise. Use a stitch marker in the first stitch of each round.

Abbreviation	Meaning
sc	Single crochet
inc	Increase (2 sc in same stitch)
dec	Decrease (sc 2 together)
sl st	Slip stitch
ch	Chain

Step-by-Step Crochet Instructions

panda head, white yarn

Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring (6)

Rnd 2: inc around (12)

Rnd 3: (1 sc, inc) x 6 (18)

Rnd 4: (2 sc, inc) x 6 (24)

Rnd 5: (3 sc, inc) x 6 (30)

Rnd 6: sc around (30)

Rnd 7: sc around (30)

Rnd 8: (3 sc, dec) x 6 (24)

Rnd 9: (2 sc, dec) x 6 (18)

Rnd 10: (1 sc, dec) x 6 (12)

Rnd 11: dec around (6)

Rnd 12: fasten off, close hole (6)

panda body, white yarn

Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring (6)

Rnd 2: inc around (12)

Rnd 3: (1 sc, inc) x 6 (18)

Rnd 4: (2 sc, inc) x 6 (24)

Rnd 5: (11 sc, inc) x 2 (26)

Rnd 6: sc around (26)

Rnd 7: sc around (26)

Rnd 8: sc around (26)

Rnd 9: sc around (26)

Rnd 10: sc around (26)

Rnd 11: (11 sc, dec) x 2 (24)

Rnd 12: (2 sc, dec) x 6 (18)

Rnd 13: (1 sc, dec) x 6 (12)

Rnd 14: dec around (6)

Rnd 15: fasten off, close hole (6)

Switch to black yarn for the eye patch.

eye patch (make 2), black yarn

Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring (6)

Rnd 2: inc around (12)

Switch to blue yarn for the eye.

eye (make 2), blue yarn

Switch to black yarn for the ear.

ear (make 2), black yarn

Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring (6)

Rnd 2: (2 sc, inc) x 2 (8)

Rnd 3: sc around (8)

Rnd 4: sc around (8)

Rnd 5: sc around (8)

Rnd 6: (2 sc, dec) x 2 (6)

arm (make 2), black yarn

Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring (6)

Rnd 2: inc around (12)

Rnd 3: (1 sc, inc) x 3 (2 sc, inc) x 2 (17)

Rnd 4: sc around (17)

Rnd 5: sc around (17)

Rnd 6: sc around (17)

Rnd 7: sc around (17)

Rnd 8: sc around (17)

Rnd 9: sc around (17)

Rnd 10: sc around (17)

Rnd 11: sc around (17)

leg (make 2), black yarn

Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring (6)

Rnd 2: inc around (12)

Rnd 3: (1 sc, inc) x 6 (18)

Rnd 4: sc around (18)

Rnd 5: sc around (18)

Rnd 6: sc around (18)

Rnd 7: sc around (18)

Rnd 8: sc around (18)

Rnd 9: sc around (18)

Rnd 10: sc around (18)

Rnd 11: sc around (18)

Switch to white yarn for the foot pad.

foot pad (make 4), white yarn

Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring (6)

Rnd 2: inc around (12)

Rnd 3: dec around (6)

Rnd 4: fasten off, close hole (6)

Switch to gold yarn for the belt.

belt, gold yarn

Rnd 1: Ch 13, join with sl st to form ring, sc in each ch around (12)

Rnd 2: sc around (12)

Rnd 3: sc around (12)

Rnd 4: sc around (12)

Fasten off. Do not stuff.

Switch to red yarn for the dragon hat.

dragon hat, red yarn

Rnd 1: Ch 24, join with sl st to form ring, sc in each ch around (23)

Rnd 2: sc around (23)

Rnd 3: sc around (23)

Rnd 4: sc around (23)

Rnd 5: sc around (23)

Rnd 6: sc around (23)

Rnd 7: sc around (23)

Rnd 8: sc around (23)

Rnd 9: sc around (23)

Fasten off. Do not stuff.

Switch to yellow yarn for the dragon horn.

dragon horn, yellow yarn

Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring (6)

Rnd 2: sc around (6)

Rnd 3: sc around (6)

Rnd 4: sc around (6)

Rnd 5: sc around (6)

Rnd 6: sc around (6)

Rnd 7: sc around (6)

Rnd 8: fasten off, close hole (6)

Switch to black yarn for the dragon pupil.

dragon pupil (make 2), black yarn

Switch to yellow yarn for the dragon mustache.

dragon mustache (make 2), yellow yarn

Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring (6)

Rnd 2: inc around (12)

Rnd 3: (1 sc, inc) x 6 (18)

Rnd 4: (2 sc, inc) x 6 (24)

Rnd 5: sc around (24)

Rnd 6: (2 sc, dec) x 6 (18)

Rnd 7: (1 sc, dec) x 6 (12)

Rnd 8: dec around (6)

Rnd 9: fasten off, close hole (6)

Switch to black yarn for the dragon nose.

dragon nose, black yarn

Embroider the nose with black thread after the eyes are placed.

Work a small triangular satin stitch centered between the eyes, about 8 mm wide.

panda mouth, black yarn

Embroider the mouth with black or dark brown thread after the eyes are placed.

Use a single curved satin stitch or back stitch, centered below the eyes and about 1.5 cm wide.

Switch to yellow yarn for the dragon tail.

dragon tail, yellow yarn

Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring (6)

Rnd 2: sc around (6)

Rnd 3: sc around (6)

Rnd 4: sc around (6)

Rnd 5: sc around (6)

Rnd 6: sc around (6)

Rnd 7: sc around (6)

Rnd 8: sc around (6)

Rnd 9: sc around (6)

Rnd 10: fasten off, close hole (6)

Switch to red yarn for the dragon tail tip.

dragon tail tip, red yarn

Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring (6)

Rnd 2: sc around (6)

Rnd 3: sc around (6)

Rnd 4: sc around (6)

Rnd 5: sc around (6)

Rnd 6: sc around (6)

Rnd 7: sc around (6)

Rnd 8: sc around (6)

Rnd 9: sc around (6)

Rnd 10: fasten off, close hole (6)

Switch to black yarn for the eye patches.

eye patches (make 2), black yarn

Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring (6)

Rnd 2: inc around (12)

Fasten off, leave long tail for sewing

Sew the eye patches around the safety eyes or embroidered eyes on the upper half of the head.

Switch to red and yellow yarn for the shoulder decorations.

shoulder decorations (make 2), red and yellow yarn

Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring (6)

Rnd 2: sc around (6)

Rnd 3: sc around (6)

Rnd 4: fasten off, close hole (6)

Switch to yellow yarn for the dragon crest.

dragon crest, yellow yarn

Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring (6)

Rnd 2: inc around (12)

Rnd 3: (1 sc, inc) x 6 (18)

Rnd 4: sc around (18)

Rnd 5: sc around (18)

Rnd 6: sc around (18)

Rnd 7: (1 sc, dec) x 6 (12)

Rnd 8: dec around (6)

Rnd 9: fasten off, close hole (6)

dragon whiskers (make 2), yellow yarn

Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring (6)

Rnd 2: inc around (12)

Rnd 3: (1 sc, inc) x 6 (18)

Rnd 4: (2 sc, inc) x 6 (24)

Rnd 5: sc around (24)

Rnd 6: (2 sc, dec) x 6 (18)

Rnd 7: (1 sc, dec) x 6 (12)

Rnd 8: dec around (6)

Rnd 9: fasten off, close hole (6)

Switch to white yarn for the claw.

claw (make 10), white yarn

Row 1: Ch 7, sc in 2nd ch from hook and across (6)

Row 2: Ch 1, turn, sc across (6)

dragon eye white (make 2), white yarn

Use 6 mm safety eyes or embroidered eyes; place them on the upper half of the head, about one eye-width apart.

If using safety eyes, insert the posts before closing the head opening and secure the backs firmly on the inside.

If embroidering, work two small black satin stitches, then add a tiny white stitch highlight if desired.

Switch to red and yellow yarn for the wing.

wing (make 2), red and yellow yarn

Row 1: Ch 18, sc in 2nd ch from hook and across (17)

Row 2: Ch 1, turn, sc across (17)

Row 3: Ch 1, turn, sc across (17)

Row 4: Ch 1, turn, sc across (17)

Row 5: Ch 1, turn, sc across (17)

Row 6: Ch 1, turn, sc across (17)

Row 7: Ch 1, turn, sc across (17)

Row 8: Ch 1, turn, sc across (17)

Row 9: Ch 1, turn, sc across (17)

Row 10: Ch 1, turn, sc across (17)

Row 11: Ch 1, turn, sc across (17)

Fasten off, leaving long tail for sewing

Switch to black yarn for the panda feet.

panda feet (make 2), black yarn

Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring (6)

Rnd 2: inc around (12)

Rnd 3: (1 sc, inc) x 6 (18)

Rnd 4: (2 sc, inc) x 6 (24)

Rnd 5: sc around (24)

Rnd 6: (2 sc, dec) x 6 (18)

Rnd 7: (1 sc, dec) x 6 (12)

Rnd 8: dec around (6)

Rnd 9: fasten off, close hole (6)

Switch to brown yarn for the panda shorts.

panda shorts, brown yarn

Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring (6)

Rnd 2: inc around (12)

Rnd 3: (1 sc, inc) x 6 (18)

Rnd 4: (2 sc, inc) x 6 (24)

Rnd 5: sc around (24)

Rnd 6: (2 sc, dec) x 6 (18)

Rnd 7: (1 sc, dec) x 6 (12)

Rnd 8: dec around (6)

Rnd 9: fasten off, close hole (6)

Switch to green yarn for the dragon ear tufts.

dragon ear tufts (make 2), green yarn

Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring (6)

Rnd 2: (2 sc, inc) x 2 (8)

Rnd 3: sc around (8)

Rnd 4: sc around (8)

Rnd 5: sc around (8)

Rnd 6: (2 sc, dec) x 2 (6)

Rnd 7: fasten off, close hole (6)

Bring It All Together

1. Stuff panda head, panda body, foot pad, dragon hat, panda feet firmly with polyfill for stability. Shape as you go, pressing and molding to match the reference photo. Add extra stuffing to the base for a sturdy foundation.

2. Attach eye patch to the head. Position on the upper half of the head, below the horns, spaced about one eye-width apart. Secure firmly with embroidery thread or fabric glue. Embroider a small line below each eye for a more expressive look.

3. Attach eye to the head. Position on the upper half of the head, below the horns, spaced about one eye-width apart. Secure firmly with embroidery thread or fabric glue. Embroider a small line below each eye for a more expressive look.

4. Sew ear to the sides of the head. Position just below the horns, angled outward at 45 degrees. Pin in place before sewing to check alignment from all angles. Use the long tail left for sewing and whipstitch around the base.

5. Sew dragon horn to the top of the head. Position symmetrically, about 1 cm apart, angled slightly outward. Pin in place before sewing to check alignment from all angles. Use the long tail left for sewing and whipstitch around the base.

6. Attach dragon pupil to the head. Position on the upper half of the head, below the horns, spaced about one eye-width apart. Secure firmly with embroidery thread or fabric glue. Embroider a small line below each eye for a more expressive look.

7. Embroider the nose with black thread centered between the eyes. Work a small triangular satin stitch about 8 mm wide.

8. Sew panda mouth to the head. Pin in place before sewing to check positioning. Use whipstitch for a secure attachment.

9. Attach eye patches to the head. Position on the upper half of the head, below the horns, spaced about one eye-width apart. Secure firmly with embroidery thread or fabric glue. Embroider a small line below each eye for a more expressive look.

10. Attach dragon eye white to the head. Position on the upper half of the head, below the horns, spaced about one eye-width apart. Secure firmly with embroidery thread or fabric glue. Embroider a small line below each eye for a more expressive look.

11. Sew dragon ear tufts to the sides of the head. Position just below the horns, angled outward at 45 degrees. Pin in place before sewing to check alignment from all angles. Use the long tail left for sewing and whipstitch around the base.

12. Sew arm to the body. Align carefully and pin in place before sewing. Check from all angles, then sew firmly with whipstitch.

13. Sew leg to the body. Align carefully and pin in place before sewing. Check from all angles, then sew firmly with whipstitch.

14. Sew dragon tail to the body. Align the flat edge against the body and whipstitch along the seam. Leave the outer edge free for a natural, dimensional look.

15. Sew dragon tail tip to the body. Align the flat edge against the body and whipstitch along the seam. Leave the outer edge free for a natural, dimensional look.

16. Sew wing to the body. Pin in place before sewing to check positioning. Use whipstitch for a secure attachment.

17. Slip panda shorts over the body; do not stuff it. Whipstitch the top edge to the shoulders or neckline, and leave the hem free so the garment drapes naturally. Pin evenly before sewing to keep the opening centered.

18. Sew eye patch in place following the reference photo. Pin first to check positioning, then whipstitch with matching yarn, weaving in the ends securely.

19. Sew belt in place following the reference photo. Pin first to check positioning, then whipstitch with matching yarn, weaving in the ends securely.

20. Sew dragon mustache in place following the reference photo. Pin first to check positioning, then whipstitch with matching yarn, weaving in the ends securely.

21. Sew dragon nose in place following the reference photo. Pin first to check positioning, then whipstitch with matching yarn, weaving in the ends securely.

22. Sew dragon tail tip in place following the reference photo. Pin first to check positioning, then whipstitch with matching yarn, weaving in the ends securely.

23. Sew eye patches in place following the reference photo. Pin first to check positioning, then whipstitch with matching yarn, weaving in the ends securely.

24. Sew shoulder decorations in place following the reference photo. Pin first to check positioning, then whipstitch with matching yarn, weaving in the ends securely.

25. Sew dragon crest in place following the reference photo. Pin first to check positioning, then whipstitch with matching yarn, weaving in the ends securely.

26. Sew dragon whiskers in place following the reference photo. Pin first to check positioning, then whipstitch with matching yarn, weaving in the ends securely.

27. Sew claw in place following the reference photo. Pin first to check positioning, then whipstitch with matching yarn, weaving in the ends securely.

28. Sew dragon eye white in place following the reference photo. Pin first to check positioning, then whipstitch with matching yarn, weaving in the ends securely.

29. Sew dragon ear tufts in place following the reference photo. Pin first to check positioning, then whipstitch with matching yarn, weaving in the ends securely.

30. Check all seams are secure. Gently tug each attached piece to test. Trim any loose yarn ends with sharp scissors. Weave in all remaining tails with a needle, passing through at least 3 stitches in each direction to prevent unraveling. Give the finished piece a gentle squeeze to distribute stuffing evenly and shape the final form.

Care Tips for Your Finished Amigurumi

This amigurumi Po doll is worked in continuous rounds with a 3.5 mm hook, so the tips below focus on techniques that keep stitches even, shaping clean, and finishing tidy at an intermediate skill level.

• Place a stitch marker in the first stitch of every round and move it up at the end of each round; this prevents the telltale spiral seam that appears when rounds drift out of alignment, especially across the head and body increases.
• Maintain firm, even tension throughout so the 3.5 mm hook produces a tight fabric with no stuffing peeking through; loose tension is the most common reason amigurumi look lumpy rather than smooth.
• Use decreases (the two-loop method) for all shaping rounds on the head, body, and limbs; they sit flush against the post below and keep the decrease line from showing through the surface of the doll.
• Stuff in small, firm pieces rather than one large clump, pushing fiber into the nose, ear bases, and limb tips with the back of your hook before the opening closes; this prevents visible hollows and keeps the silhouette well rounded.
• When joining limbs, work the attachment through both the limb and body with a whip stitch or single crochet join, then add a reinforcing stitch through the joint twice; this stops arms and legs from rotating loosely after play.
• Carry color changes for the face details and belly patch using the the stitch detail technique or a clean -style float hidden inside the head, catching the unused yarn every few stitches to avoid long pulls on the right side.
• Check your gauge on the first 10 rounds of the head: stitches should be slightly smaller than the hook suggests to create a dense fabric; if you can see the stuffing between stitches, drop down your tension before continuing.
• Block the finished pieces lightly with a cool steam or damp cloth before final

  Frequently Asked Questions

  What hook size and yarn do I need for the Po amigurumi?

  You will need a 3.5 mm crochet hook paired with worsted weight yarn to achieve the correct gauge for the Po amigurumi. This combination gives a tight, even stitch that holds the stuffing securely inside the finished doll. Choosing a different hook size will affect the final dimensions and may cause the stuffing to show through the stitches.

  How long does it take to crochet the Po amigurumi?

  Most crocheters complete the Po amigurumi in 2-4 hours, depending on their working speed and how many breaks they take. The project is small enough to finish in a single afternoon for someone comfortable with intermediate techniques. Adding details like embroidered facial features or sewn-on accessories can extend the time slightly.

  Is the Po amigurumi pattern suitable for beginners?

  The Po amigurumi is rated as an Intermediate skill level pattern, so some prior amigurumi experience is helpful. You will encounter techniques like decreases, magic ring starts, and working in continuous spiral rounds. If you have completed a basic amigurumi project before, you should be able to follow this pattern with confidence.

  Can I sell finished Po amigurumi dolls made from this pattern?

  Yes, you are generally welcome to sell finished Po amigurumi dolls made from this pattern, whether at craft fairs, online shops, or local markets. Please credit the pattern designer when listing your items online. Mass production or reproducing the written pattern itself is not permitted.

  How do I resize the Po amigurumi to make it larger or smaller?

  To resize the Po amigurumi, simply switch to a larger hook and heavier yarn for a bigger doll, or a smaller hook and lighter yarn for a miniature version.

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