Pig Amigurumi For Farm Themed Gift Making
Finished Size: Approximately 10 inches (25 cm) tall and 7 inches (18 cm) wide
Skill Level: Intermediate
Estimated Time: 2-4 hours
Hook Size: 3.5 mm
Yarn: worsted yarn
Notions: Yarn needle, stitch marker, polyfill
Gauge: Approximately 12 sc x 14 rounds = 4 inches with 3.5 mm hook
What Makes This Pattern Special
There's a particular kind of joy that comes from finishing a three-dimensional project you can actually hold in your arms, and this pig amigurumi delivers exactly that. Worked in worsted weight yarn with a 3.5 mm hook, the finished piece stands approximately 10 inches (25 cm) tall and 7 inches (18 cm) wide, making it substantial enough to feel like a real companion rather than a trinket. The medium weight of the yarn gives the stitches a soft, squishy body, while the slightly smaller hook creates a tight fabric that holds stuffing beautifully without any peeking-through gaps. At an Intermediate skill level, the pattern introduces techniques like decreases for shaping the snout, the stitch detail for adding embroidered details, and shaping rows for the curved belly, all of which build on a foundation of single crochet and simple increases.
What I love about a project like this is how the rhythm of the rounds changes as the pig takes shape. You'll begin with a magic ring of six stitches, watch the head balloon outward through steady increases, then feel the tension shift as you work the decreases to taper the muzzle into that classic upturned snout. The worsted yarn has just enough drape to keep the rounds plump without sagging, and the 3.5 mm hook keeps every stitch defined so the the stitch detail details pop against the background. By the time you seam the legs and attach the ears, you'll have a piece roughly the size of a small stuffed animal, ready to perch on a nursery shelf, sit on a desk, or be handed to a child who needs something soft to squeeze.
One concrete reason to choose this project: it teaches three dimensional shaping techniques in a for giving, low-stakes format. Unlike a garment where a missed a small practice piece can throw off the entire fit, an amigurumi forgives small variations, so you can practice decreases, the stitch detail, and shaping rows without the pressure of wearable
A Few Notes Before We Begin
Few amigurumi designs capture the charm of a farmyard favorite quite like a plump little pig, and this one is a satisfying make for anyone who loves working in the round. The shaping is for giving enough to encourage crocheters who have moved past the basics, while the small details keep the project engaging rather than repetitive. It suits intermediate makers who want to practice decreases for a polished finish, and it makes a wonderful gift for a child, a nursery shelf, or a collector of handmade animals.
For yarn, choose a worsted weight acrylic or cotton blend in a soft pink, dusty rose, or even a pale lilac if you prefer a stylized look. A heathered or lightly variegated yarn can add character without distracting from the simple silhouette, and a small amount of contrasting black or dark brown is enough for the eyes and nostrils. Worked at a fairly tight tension with a 3.5 mm hook, the finished pig measures approximately 10 inches (25 cm) tall and 7 inches (18 cm) wide, making it a comfortable handheld size that still has presence on a shelf. Keep in mind that switching to a fluffier yarn will increase the overall bulk, while a smooth cotton will give crisper stitch definition and a slightly smaller result.
One common pitfall is stuffing the body too firmly before closing the top, which makes the final rounds pucker and can distort the ears. Instead, add fiberfill gradually as you approach the opening, shaping the head with light, even pressure so the decreases sit flat. Using a stitch marker throughout also helps you catch any missed increases early, before they affect the curve of the snout.
Yarn, Hooks, and Notions
| Material | Details |
|---|---|
| Yarn | worsted yarn in light pink, black, brown, purple, pink, blue, yellow, magenta, green, darker pink, red, gray, dark pink, turquoise, light blue |
| Hook | 3.5 mm crochet hook |
| Stuffing | Polyfill or fiberfill |
| Eyes | Safety eyes or embroidery thread |
| Extras | Yarn needle, stitch markers, scissors |
Gauge: Approximately 12 sc x 14 rounds = 4 inches with 3.5 mm hook. Not critical but aim for tight, even stitches, if stuffing shows through, go down one hook size.
Abbreviations You'll Need to Know
Note: This pattern uses US crochet terms. All rounds are worked in continuous rounds unless stated otherwise. Use a stitch marker in the first stitch of each round.
| Abbreviation | Meaning |
|---|---|
| sc | Single crochet |
| inc | Increase (2 sc in same stitch) |
| dec | Decrease (sc 2 together) |
| ch | Chain |
The Full Pattern, Step by Step
head, light pink yarn
Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring (6)
Rnd 2: inc around (12)
Rnd 3: (1 sc, inc) x 6 (18)
Rnd 4: (2 sc, inc) x 6 (24)
Rnd 5: (3 sc, inc) x 6 (30)
Rnd 6: sc around (30)
Rnd 7: sc around (30)
Rnd 8: (3 sc, dec) x 6 (24)
Rnd 9: (2 sc, dec) x 6 (18)
Rnd 10: (1 sc, dec) x 6 (12)
Rnd 11: dec around (6)
Rnd 12: fasten off, close hole (6)
snout, light pink yarn
Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring (6)
Rnd 2: inc around (12)
Rnd 3: sc around (12)
Rnd 4: sc around (12)
Rnd 5: sc around (12)
Rnd 6: dec around (6)
Rnd 7: fasten off, close hole (6)
Switch to black yarn for the eye.
eye (make 2), black yarn
Use 6 mm safety eyes or embroidered eyes; place them on the upper half of the head, about one eye-width apart.
If using safety eyes, insert the posts before closing the head opening and secure the backs firmly on the inside.
If embroidering, work two small black satin stitches, then add a tiny white stitch highlight if desired.
Switch to brown yarn for the eyebrow.
eyebrow (make 2), brown yarn
Embroider this facial detail with black thread after the head is closed.
Use short straight stitches or satin stitch, keeping the line light and curved so it sits naturally above the eye.
Switch to purple yarn for the flower.
flower, purple yarn
Row 1: Ch 8, sc in 2nd ch from hook and across (7)
Row 2: Ch 1, turn, sc across (7)
Row 3: Ch 1, turn, sc across (7)
Switch to green yarn for the leaf.
leaf (make 5), green yarn
Row 1: Ch 7, sc in 2nd ch from hook and across (6)
Row 2: Ch 1, turn, sc across (6)
Row 3: Ch 1, turn, sc across (6)
Switch to light pink yarn for the body.
body, light pink yarn
Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring (6)
Rnd 2: inc around (12)
Rnd 3: (1 sc, inc) x 6 (18)
Rnd 4: (2 sc, inc) x 6 (24)
Rnd 5: (11 sc, inc) x 2 (26)
Rnd 6: sc around (26)
Rnd 7: sc around (26)
Rnd 8: sc around (26)
Rnd 9: sc around (26)
Rnd 10: sc around (26)
Rnd 11: (11 sc, dec) x 2 (24)
Rnd 12: (2 sc, dec) x 6 (18)
Rnd 13: (1 sc, dec) x 6 (12)
Rnd 14: dec around (6)
Rnd 15: fasten off, close hole (6)
ears (make 2), light pink yarn
Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring (6)
Rnd 2: (2 sc, inc) x 2 (8)
Rnd 3: sc around (8)
Rnd 4: sc around (8)
Rnd 5: sc around (8)
Rnd 6: (2 sc, dec) x 2 (6)
Rnd 7: fasten off, close hole (6)
arms (make 2), light pink yarn
Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring (6)
Rnd 2: inc around (12)
Rnd 3: (1 sc, inc) x 3 (2 sc, inc) x 2 (17)
Rnd 4: sc around (17)
Rnd 5: sc around (17)
Rnd 6: sc around (17)
Rnd 7: sc around (17)
Rnd 8: sc around (17)
Rnd 9: sc around (17)
Rnd 10: sc around (17)
Rnd 11: sc around (17)
Rnd 12: (dec) x 1 (1 sc, dec) x 5 (11)
Rnd 13: (dec) x 4 (1 sc, dec) x 1 (6)
Rnd 14: fasten off, close hole (6)
Switch to light pink with darker pink hooves yarn for the legs.
legs (make 2), light pink with darker pink hooves yarn
Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring (6)
Rnd 2: inc around (12)
Rnd 3: (1 sc, inc) x 6 (18)
Rnd 4: sc around (18)
Rnd 5: sc around (18)
Rnd 6: sc around (18)
Rnd 7: sc around (18)
Rnd 8: sc around (18)
Rnd 9: sc around (18)
Rnd 10: sc around (18)
Rnd 11: sc around (18)
Rnd 12: (1 sc, dec) x 6 (12)
Rnd 13: dec around (6)
Rnd 14: fasten off, close hole (6)
Switch to light pink yarn for the tail.
tail, light pink yarn
Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring (6)
Rnd 2: sc around (6)
Rnd 3: sc around (6)
Rnd 4: sc around (6)
Rnd 5: sc around (6)
Rnd 6: sc around (6)
Rnd 7: sc around (6)
Rnd 8: sc around (6)
Rnd 9: sc around (6)
Rnd 10: fasten off, close hole (6)
Switch to green yarn for the flower crown leaves.
flower crown leaves (make 5), green yarn
Row 1: Ch 8, sc in 2nd ch from hook and across (7)
Row 2: Ch 1, turn, sc across (7)
Row 3: Ch 1, turn, sc across (7)
Switch to dark pink yarn for the nostrils.
nostrils (make 2), dark pink yarn
Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring (6)
Rnd 2: inc around (12)
Rnd 3: (1 sc, inc) x 6 (18)
Rnd 4: (2 sc, inc) x 6 (24)
Rnd 5: sc around (24)
Rnd 6: (2 sc, dec) x 6 (18)
Rnd 7: (1 sc, dec) x 6 (12)
Rnd 8: dec around (6)
Rnd 9: fasten off, close hole (6)
hand (make 2), dark pink yarn
Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring (6)
Rnd 2: inc around (12)
Rnd 3: (1 sc, inc) x 6 (18)
Rnd 4: (2 sc, inc) x 6 (24)
Rnd 5: sc around (24)
Rnd 6: (2 sc, dec) x 6 (18)
Rnd 7: (1 sc, dec) x 6 (12)
Rnd 8: dec around (6)
Rnd 9: fasten off, close hole (6)
foot (make 2), dark pink yarn
Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring (6)
Rnd 2: inc around (12)
Rnd 3: dec around (6)
Rnd 4: fasten off, close hole (6)
Switch to multi yarn for the flower crown.
flower crown, multi yarn
Row 1: Ch 24, sc in 2nd ch from hook and across (23)
Row 2: Ch 1, turn, sc across (23)
Row 3: Ch 1, turn, sc across (23)
Row 4: Ch 1, turn, sc across (23)
Fasten off, leaving long tail for sewing
Final Stitch Counts
- head: 30 stitches at widest point
- snout: 12 stitches at widest point
- eye (x 2): See pattern
- eyebrow (x 2): See pattern
- flower: 7 stitches at widest point
- leaf (x 5): 6 stitches at widest point
- body: 26 stitches at widest point
- ears (x 2): 8 stitches at widest point
- arms (x 2): 17 stitches at widest point
- legs (x 2): 18 stitches at widest point
- tail: 6 stitches at widest point
- flower crown leaves (x 5): 7 stitches at widest point
- nostrils (x 2): 24 stitches at widest point
- hand (x 2): 24 stitches at widest point
- foot (x 2): 12 stitches at widest point
- flower crown: 23 stitches at widest point
Assembling Your Amigurumi
1. Stuff head, body, hand, foot firmly with polyfill for stability. Shape as you go, pressing and molding to match the reference photo. Add extra stuffing to the base for a sturdy foundation.
2. Sew snout to the front of the head. Center between the eyes, slightly below the eye line. Stuff lightly with polyfill before closing for a 3D effect. Pin in place before sewing to check alignment from all angles.
3. Attach eye to the head. Position on the upper half of the head, spaced about one eye-width apart. Secure firmly with embroidery thread or fabric glue. Embroider a small line below each eye for a more expressive look.
4. Embroider eyebrow above each eye, following the natural brow arch. Use short satin or back stitches in matching yarn, keeping the line light and slightly curved. Place them about one eye-width above the eyes for a balanced expression.
5. Sew flower onto the head as shown in the reference photo, using the long tail for a discreet anchor. Pin first to try positions before committing.
6. Sew ears to the sides of the head. Position on the upper sides of the head, angled outward. Pin in place before sewing to check alignment from all angles. Use the long tail left for sewing and whipstitch around the base.
7. Position flower crown leaves around the head like a wreath. Pin it symmetrically just above the hairline, then whipstitch at 4-6 anchor points so it sits flat against the head. Use matching or invisible thread for the anchors.
8. Position flower crown around the head like a wreath. Pin it symmetrically just above the hairline, then whipstitch at 4-6 anchor points so it sits flat against the head. Use matching or invisible thread for the anchors.
9. Sew arms to the body. Pin in place before sewing to check positioning. Use whipstitch for a secure attachment.
10. Sew legs to the body. Pin in place before sewing to check positioning. Use whipstitch for a secure attachment.
11. Sew tail to the body. Pin in place before sewing to check positioning. Use whipstitch for a secure attachment.
12. Sew eyebrow in place following the reference photo. Pin first to check positioning, then whipstitch with matching yarn, weaving in the ends securely.
13. Sew leaf in place following the reference photo. Pin first to check positioning, then whipstitch with matching yarn, weaving in the ends securely.
14. Sew flower crown leaves in place following the reference photo. Pin first to check positioning, then whipstitch with matching yarn, weaving in the ends securely.
15. Sew nostrils in place following the reference photo. Pin first to check positioning, then whipstitch with matching yarn, weaving in the ends securely.
16. Sew flower crown in place following the reference photo. Pin first to check positioning, then whipstitch with matching yarn, weaving in the ends securely.
17. Check all seams are secure. Gently tug each attached piece to test. Trim any loose yarn ends with sharp scissors. Weave in all remaining tails with a needle, passing through at least 3 stitches in each direction to prevent unraveling. Give the finished piece a gentle squeeze to distribute stuffing evenly and shape the final form.
Helpful Tips and Cleaning Advice
These practical tips will help you crochet a well-finished pig amigurumi using a 3.5 mm hook. Each suggestion addresses a specific technique that supports clean shaping, even stuffing, and a polished final piece suitable for an intermediate skill level.
- Place a stitch marker in the first stitch of every round and move it up at the start of each new round. This keeps your stitch count accurate and prevents the spiral from drifting, which is essential when working the small, rounded sections of the head and snout.
- Use the decreases instead of standard single crochet two together when shaping the snout, ears, and limbs. Inserting the hook under the front loops only produces a smoother seam and avoids the small holes that can appear with a regular decrease.
- Maintain consistent tension throughout the project so your gauge stays even across all pieces. Uneven tension causes some sections to grow larger than others, which makes assembly awkward and can distort the pig's proportions when the pieces are joined.
- Stuff the head and body firmly but avoid over packing the snout and ear tips. Dense stuffing in narrow areas pushes the stitches outward and can distort the shape, while a lighter fill in the extremities keeps the points defined.
- Join the head, body, and limbs using the whip stitch with a yarn needle, aligning the stitches carefully before sewing. Pinning the pieces together first lets you check the placement and adjust before committing the seam.
- When changing colors for the snout or hooves, work the color change in the last two loops of the previous stitch. This secures the new yarn neatly and prevents a visible jog where the colors meet.
- Block each finished piece lightly with a cool iron and a damp cloth before assembly. Blocking relaxes the stitches, evens out the surface, and helps the pieces hold their shape once they are joined together.
- Weave in
Frequently Asked Questions
What skill level is needed to crochet this pig amigurumi?
The pig amigurumi pattern is rated Intermediate, so you should be comfortable with amigurumi basics like working in continuous spirals, magic rings, and reading stitch counts. The pattern also uses techniques such as decreases and the stitch detail for the snout details, which are typical at this level. If you have finished a few small amigurumi projects before, you should be ready to tackle this pig amigurumi.
How long does it take to crochet the pig amigurumi?
Most crocheters finish the pig amigurumi in 2-4 hours, depending on their pace and how many breaks they take. The body, head, and legs are quick rounds, while the ears and snout details add a little extra time. Having all your yarn pre-sorted and stuffing ready will help you stay within the 2-4 hour window.
What hook size and yarn weight should I use for the pig amigurumi?
The pattern calls for a 3.5 mm crochet hook paired with worsted weight yarn, which gives the tight, dense fabric amigurumi needs so stuffing does not show through. Using a smaller hook than the yarn ball band suggests is normal for amigurumi to prevent gaps. Any standard worsted weight yarn in pink, mauve, or your chosen color will work well for the pig amigurumi.
Can I sell finished pig amigurumi made from this pattern?
Yes, you are generally welcome to sell finished pig amigurumi made from this pattern, whether at craft fairs, online shops, or local markets. Please credit the designer when listing or tagging your items, and do not reproduce or resell the written pattern itself. Selling the pig amigurumi as a finished toy is a great way to
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